Why Hong Kong auction houses are curating their jewellery collections for investment value: gems in vibrant colours from heritage brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are now the way to go
Storied brands and rare gems that blend heritage with vibrant aesthetics are enticing collectors on the hunt for solid investments
Recent jewellery auctions in Hong Kong underscore a growing trend: auction houses are curating collections that emphasise solid investment value through storied brands and top-quality gemstones, while embracing a poetic aesthetic highlighted by vibrant colours. This trend reflects the evolving preferences of affluent collectors and investors.
At Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction in Hong Kong in April, the top lot was the important Écho earrings by Cartier, each suspending a 6.32-carat pear-shaped fancy intense pink diamond and a 6.03 carat pear-shaped diamond in D colour and internally flawless. This spectacular pair fetched HK$22.33 million. Intense bidding also drove up the price of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Palais de la Chance brooch to HK$2.03 million.
The emphasis on top-quality gemstones – particularly rare, unheated and certified stones – further cements their status as investment-grade assets. Hong Kong auctions consistently spotlight gems with exceptional clarity and colour, as well as those from auspicious origins, all factors that help give a stone rarity and market resilience.
Christie’s imminent Magnificent Jewels live auction in Hong Kong on May 27 will showcase The Regent Kashmir, a 35.09-carat sapphire of historic significance, estimated at HK$65 million to HK$95 million and celebrated for its velvety blue hue, exceptional clarity and exceptionally rare origin. Also offered is The Regal Ruby, estimated at HK$50 million to HK$80 million, a certified unheated 13.22-carat ruby of extraordinary rarity. Other highlights include a 10.35-carat Colombian no-oil emerald and diamond ring – estimate HK$6.8 million to HK$9.8 million.
While investment value remains paramount, auction houses are also curating collections with notable aesthetics – pieces distinguished by vibrant colours that evoke emotional and artistic resonance. This trend aligns with collectors’ desire for jewellery that is not only financially sound but also visually striking. Auction catalogues often highlight gemstones in bold hues labelled an “artist’s palette”.
One example is a rare 181.61 carat unmounted Paraiba-type tourmaline by contemporary fine jeweller Kat Florence, available at Bonhams’ Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite sale on May 22. This unheated and untreated Mozambique-origin gemstone boasts high clarity, a fine cut, and an internally flawless natural greenish-blue hue. It is offered with an estimate of HK$3 million to HK$5 million.