The allure of jet-black jewellery: Louis Vuitton, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari, and independents like Boochier, have turned to the dark side this winter

Much like swapping out floaty sundresses for cosy knits, jewellery boxes are also undergoing a seasonal shift – one that replaces summer’s shell necklaces, bright beads and iridescent pearls with autumnal accents leaning into an edgier aesthetic.

While our wardrobe’s gear change is one that never fails to arrive with the turning of the leaves, jewellery designers’ penchant for experimenting with darker tones – think black diamonds, onyx, enamel and rhodium – is especially pronounced this season. Whether it’s a reaction against the recent wave of flouncy, bohemian fashion, or a persistent urge to return to 90s style codes, one thing is certain: black is back in a major way for jewellery.

At luxury heritage houses, the use of onyx – a talismanic quartz revered in ancient civilisations for its ability to dispel negative energy – is on the rise. The stone’s high-sheen allure shines on Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée couleurs ring, while Bulgari’s Onyx Divas’ Dream necklace combines the quartz’s glossy finish with striking, modern appeal. For those seeking a softer symbol with a Gothic tone, Louis Vuitton’s Colour Blossom Lariat necklace updates the maison’s monogram flower with raven-hued onyx, creating a piece that feels timeless yet edgy.

Another advocate of the statement-making stone is Hong Kong jewellery designer Chantel Shafie, who celebrates onyx’s grounding properties and strength in her newest range, The Eternal Dragon Collection. “I chose onyx not only for its striking aesthetic but also for its ability to promote emotional balance and self-control.” Shafie explained. “It reminds the wearer to embrace their inner strength and stay connected to their roots, which aligns beautifully with the collection’s themes of empowerment and personal significance.”

She also praised the versatility of the inky quartz: “I see the onyx pieces being worn in various settings – from elegant evenings to relaxed outings. Their bold yet sophisticated look, featuring 18k recycled gold and diamonds, makes them perfect for both everyday wear and special occasions. I imagine women wearing these pieces as a statement of confidence and layering them to express their individuality.”

Another popular choice among designers is the use of jet-black enamel – a glossy layer applied over metal, it achieves an aesthetic akin to onyx. Melinda Zeman, designer behind Hong Kong fine jewellery label Boochier, echoed Shafie’s sentiment on black’s supreme wearability. “I love using enamel because it’s so versatile and complements so many materials. You can dress it up or down, which is at the core of all my designs because jewellery should be worn. Our black Fruit Hoops Ring is one of my favourite pieces. You can wear it with jeans and a T-shirt, but it also works for an evening event.”

For those nostalgic for summer’s carefree spirit but looking for a darker twist, Boochier’s Beaching Collection, which merges black pearls with seashells, starfish and seahorses, is a fitting choice. “It was originally a summer collection, but the black pearls lend the range so well to winter, complementing darker winter hues while still keeping it playful and whimsical with the beachside accents,” said Zeman.

Adding a further nod to coastal themes, fine luxury jewellery label John Hardy draws inspiration from Bali’s volcanic sands for its Holiday 2024 capsule, which introduces a “Black Sand” pavé setting that sees shimmering black gemstones handset into JH Essentials, Surf and Pebble lines. Fusing the moody hues of black sapphires and diamonds with sculptural forms creates a striking, genderless visual impact.