Indian jewellery’s moment to shine: modern jewellers like Hanut Singh wow stars from Nicole Kidman and Madonna, to Kareena Kapoor, Alia Bhatt and Isha Ambani

Jul 15 , 2024

Indian jewellery’s modern designers like Anaita Shroff Adajania, Hanut Singh and Tallin – seen here on Isha Amani – are appealing to the likes of international stars as well as local A-listers. Photos: Handout

Names like Shachee Fine Jewellery, Uncut Jewellery, Tara Fine Jewellery and Anu Merton are impressing with their craftsmanship and creativity

Tallin Jewels founder and creative director Akshat Ghiya comes from a family of gemstone traders while Studio Renn’s Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri take a contemporary, even avant garde approach

India’s rich history of jewellery design and craftsmanship has long inspired renowned maisons in Europe and beyond. Even on home turf, established jewellers such as Gem Palace and Amrapali continue to create opulent jewels that celebrate traditional goldsmithing and gem-cutting techniques that date as far back as the Mughal Empire of the 16th century.

While many names continue to pay homage to the country’s past, a growing group of independent designers are looking firmly into the future. From Jaipur’s multi-generational ateliers to the sleek design studios of Mumbai, these talents are developing cutting-edge innovations to create modern jewels and broadening India’s jewellery legacy.

“What sets these designers apart is their personal vision. They distinguish themselves with their fearless eye for design and are unafraid to experiment, [resulting] in higher quality, cooler designs,” says Mumbai-based celebrity stylist Anaita Shroff Adajania, who counts Bollywood stars and India’s style set – including Kareena Kapoor, Alia Bhatt and Isha Ambani – as clients.

“What I also love about these names is that not everyone is taking a Western approach. Some designers are still working with traditional jadau and polki [uncut diamonds], but they’re giving them a minimalistic contemporary twist, making them more wearable and fun,” she says.

Madonna wearing a Hanut Singh cross pendant earring. Photo: @madonna/instagram

Self-taught designer Hanut Singh was one of the first to open this new chapter when he launched his namesake label back in the early noughties. His intricate, contemporary designs, which have caught the eye of the likes of Nicole Kidman and Madonna, take inspiration from the art deco and art nouveau periods, while also referencing India’s historical past, a nod perhaps to his own royal ancestry.

Following in Hanut Singh’s footsteps is Tallin, a younger brand founded in 2016 in Jaipur. Considered the jewellery capital of India, the famed pink city isn’t just home to iconic heritage brands but also thousands of trained craftsmen or karigars who have honed their artistry with precious and semi-precious gems for generations. This rich legacy inspired Tallin founder and creative director Akshat Ghiya, who hails from a family of gemstone traders.

Akshat Ghiya of Tallin Jewels. Photo: Sheena Dabholkar

“We hire artisans who love their craft and excel at it. Most are second or third generation artisans and learned handmade jewellery manufacturing in their homes and through community apprenticeships starting as early as the age of 12 or 13,” says Ghiya.

While Tallin’s materials and craftsmanship speaks to India’s artisanal strengths, their designs are far from traditional and are inspired by Ghiya’s global background and tastes (he spent most of his childhood flitting between family’s homes in India and Italy).