What are métiers d’art watches and why are collectors obsessed with them? Experts at Hermès, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin spend hours embedding luxury timepieces with artistic handcrafted details

Oct 17, 2022

The GyroGraff China, with Temple of Heaven and Great Wall of China dials, features some of the world’s most intricate métiers d’art techniques. Photo: Graff

In Swiss watchmaking, the tradition of métiers d’art dates back to 1755 when Vacheron Constantin introduced a delicate enamelling technique of miniature painting

Cartier’s Marquetry watch shows the brand’s iconic Panthère using 75 blades of straw, while Chronoswiss is one of few brands to produce handmade guilloche dials

Pun alert: métiers d’art are a time-honoured tradition – especially in Swiss watchmaking, where they remain as highly coveted by collectors as ever. Popular techniques that commonly earn the lofty moniker – literally “masters of art” in English – include bas relief, plique-à-jour enamelling and miniature enamel paintings, all forms of detailing which can take months of full-time work to finish, demanding delicate engraving, intricate marquetry or day-long sessions making guilloche at the rose engine lathe.

Vacheron Constantin is credited with helping to maintain the tradition, its engagement with métiers d’art constant ever since 1755 when Jean-Marc Vacheron started a watchmaking business in an attic workshop in central Geneva. It is Vacheron Constantin that uses arguably the most difficult enamelling technique of miniature painting, evident in just a handful of bespoke items every year.

Vacheron Constantin Les Royaumes Aquatiques Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Sea Horse uses four métiers d’art techniques. Photo: Vacheron Constantin