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Gaynor Thomas

High jewellery is like haute couture, with similar characteristics – artistry, innovation and impeccable quality. Coco Chanel recognised this in 1932 with her first high jewellery collection, Bijoux de Diamants, later reprised as the 1932 Collection, to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the house.
In high fashion houses, history is an inspiration. Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, looked back to Chanel’s engagement with the post-Revolution émigré Russian community of the 1920s with the collection Le Paris Russe de Chanel.

This draws on both imperial and folkloric traditions, the life of peasants as well as the aristocracy, with inspirations as diverse as ears of wheat and military orders.
“For Chanel, there has always been a link with the earth and the values of the rural world, which explains [Coco Chanel’s] love of wheat as a symbol of prosperity,” Leguéreau said at the launch. “It also ties this collection to Russian folklore.”
Piaget, Chaumet and Cartier look to the stars for inspiration
The collection features motifs that reference Chanel’s intimate details. At first glance, the Folklore bracelet, ring and earrings are presented as delicate traceries of diamonds against deep red enamel studded with colourful gems. Then the diamonds come into focus as camellias, synonymous with Chanel.

Similarly, in the 20 years since the creation of Dior Joaillerie, its creative director, Victoire de Castellane, has included subtle but powerful signals that the spirit of Christian Dior lives on.
Her most recent collection, however, is a departure. Gem Dior, a pun on the French phrase “j’aime” (“I love”) is idiosyncratic and mischievous, rebellious even.
Multicoloured gems – rubies, diamonds, emeralds, paraiba tourmalines, pink sapphires, tsavorite, tanzanite, rubellite, purple garnets, spinels – tumble in glorious chaos, in all shapes and sizes, “abstract but also organic”, as de Castellane says. She best describes it as being like “a throw of the dice”.

Asymmetrical earrings, one a cascade and the other a cluster, illustrate the collection’s freedom. Its individualism is highlighted by the hand piece which is worn across the palm, not on the wrist, and the double finger rings.
Three of the most sought-after leather goods brands in the world have also branched out and created their own high jewellery collections.
Will Cartier and other high jewellers start using lab-grown gems?

Gucci was the most recent entrant into the field, presenting its first high jewellery collection at the 2019 Paris Fashion Week. Having morphed from a leather goods brand into a true fashion house, it was a logical step to move into high jewellery. Designed by Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, Hortus Deliciarum, or Garden of Delights, features 200 pieces grouped in three “chapters”.
This move into the rarefied world of high jewellery could be risky but Gucci has spared nothing, even opening a Place Vendôme store to showcase its exquisite creations.
Unlike other fashion houses, which look to the brand’s foundation in leather goods, Gucci, under a man who describes his creative environment as “beautiful confusion”, offers a fusion of history and pop culture.

Michele sees high jewellery as an art form and its pieces as wearable masterpieces. For Hortus Deliciarum, he says he was “inspired by the idea that you were opening the safety deposit box of an old lady and it was full of beautiful things from different eras”.
Which rare Van Cleef & Arpel necklaces are on display in Italy?
High jewellery was introduced to the Louis Vuitton universe in 2009 and, for 2019, design director Francesca Amfitheatrof has created a world drawn from myths and legends in The Riders of the Knights. It is her first collection for the brand and her guiding principle was “Louis Vuitton is a strong brand, so it needs a strong look”.
She expressed it through references to chains, amulets, armour and weaponry. The pieces are bold and weighty.

Le Royaume necklace is a choker in white gold and diamonds, fashioned like a portcullis, or grilled gate, with a massive 19.31-ct royal blue sapphire as its centrepiece. Rings are equally strong with impressive stones in large settings.
Hermès’ Enchaînement Libres, or Freedom in Chains, draws on the heritage which has underpinned the brand’s offering since its inception. Hermès is nothing if not consistent.
The maison launched its Haute Bijouterie only in 2012 and this latest collection by creative director Pierre Hardy elaborates on its equestrian theme, with some nautical references, with chains “designed for modern lifestyles”.
Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Graff and others make emeralds a trend
His chains are often large, always complex with theatrical effect. The designer has used white gold and diamonds, as well as titanium and black jade.
Hardy says they were conceived “as extensions of the body. I always seek to understand how they will actually be articulated, how they will flex and move with the body. They reveal gestures, enhance postures. They are objects with a lot of personality, light and radiance”.
These great fashion houses are living proof that superb design and execution transcend genre.
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High Jewellery

Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Hermès – how 4 luxury brands are drawing from the past to craft the high jewellery of the future

Fashion houses have long drawn deep inspiration from the past – such as this ornate ring from Chanel’s Folklore high jewellery collection. Photos: Handouts

Hermès Enchaînements Libres collection , photo: handout

Paris Russe de Chanel high jewellery collection

Chanel 1_5 1 Camelia. 5 Allures collection

A necklace from Louis Vuitton's The Riders of the Knights collection

High jewellery creation from Chanel's Folklore collection.

Vert Menthe Emearld Ring from Dior's Gem Dior collection

Piaget, Chaumet, Chanel and Cartier look to the stars for inspiration

Piaget Golden Oasis Sun Gleam Ring. Photos: Handouts

Cartier Magnitude necklace

Chaumet Bague Planetes ring

Piaget Golden Oasis Endless Sun Earrings

Chanel Comète single shooting star earring with pearls

Chaumet Les Ciels Collier Planetes necklace

Chanel Comète Shooting Star earrings

Will Cartier and other luxury brands start using more lab-grown and synthetic gems in their jewellery?

Lab-grown gems are being used to create bespoke jewellery such as these pink diamond jewels by Karen Suen, Sarah Ho and Paige Parker from Phillips Auction. Photos: Handouts

Lab-Grown diamond design from Lightbox

Necklace in silver with lab-created sapphires, from Carat London.

A sapphire and pink diamond ring from Phillips auction

Natural gems, like those used to create this diamond necklace by Cartier which was auctioned by Phillips, will apprecite in value over time

607_A Chic Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Paige Parker from Phillips

How Van Cleef & Arpels’ ‘Time, Nature, Love’ exhibition in Milan shines a light on the craft of making gorgeous jewellery

Van Cleef & Arpels created a necklace for Queen Nazli of Egypt. Photo: Winnie Chung

Iconic zip necklace. Photo: Winnie Chung

2019_Van Cleef & Arpels_Time Nature Love_exhibition_Palazzo Reale_ Milan_

Van Cleef & Arpels Time, Nature, Love exhibition

VCA minaudiere and jewellery set. Photo: Winnie Chung

VCA Rope necklace. Photo: Winnie Chung

Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Graff and other luxury jewellers make emeralds the newest trend in high jewellery

Emeralds are big this season and luxury jewellers such as these by Graff are making high jewellery using the bright green gemstone. Photos: Handouts

Graff Bow necklace

Boucheron Verrière long necklace in white gold, titanium and puffed glass, set with emeralds beads, paved with diamonds

Boucheron Perspectives ring in platinum, set with a 8.02-carats emerlad-cut Colombian emerald, black lacquer and diamonds

Emerald design from Chopard's Red Carpet Collection

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Boucheron Arcades ring in white gold, set with a 0.77-carat square diamond and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds

Intimite Spinelle Rose ring from Dior

Boucheron Colonne d Acanthe long necklace in white gold

Cartier Magnitude Equinoxe necklace

hopard Happy Clown Pendant

De Beers' Talisman Collection

Harry Winston Candy ring

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In high fashion houses, history is always an inspiration – as evidenced by these new jewellery collections from 4 of the world’s most coveted luxury brands


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Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Hermès – how 4 luxury brands are drawing from the past to craft the high jewellery of the future

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}In high fashion houses, history is always an inspiration – as evidenced by these new jewellery collections from 4 of the world’s most coveted luxury brands

In high fashion houses, history is always an inspiration – as evidenced by these new jewellery collections from 4 of the world’s most coveted luxury brands