Is Ulaanbaatar worth visiting? What to do in Mongolia’s capital – and beyond

From Buddhist temples and cashmere shopping in the city to the Gobi dunes and pristine western peaks, here is how to explore Mongolia
A sprawling metropolis that is home to almost half of Mongolia’s population, Ulaanbaatar is not the most tourist-friendly city in the world. Mongolia’s capital is international travellers’ first point of entry into the country before they move on to the deserts, grasslands, steppes and mountains that make the nation such a popular destination among nature lovers.
Most visitors to Mongolia are happy to spend a couple of days in town or skip the place altogether, but Ulaanbaatar still offers pockets of charm, especially in the summer months, when mild temperatures allow for leisurely walks in a place that is not necessarily pedestrian-friendly and lacks an easy-to-navigate transportation system.
Where to stay

Eateries include Hutong Restaurant and Naadam Bar & Restaurant, which come alive at night, when seemingly every expat and tourist in town shows up to enjoy a variety of dishes and drinks in a fun, happening atmosphere.
What to eat

Heavy on the meat, Mongolian cuisine relies on the country’s traditional herding culture. Mutton, lamb, beef and goat are popular on menus, as are hearty starches like savoury pastries and dumplings.
For a great introduction to the local food, the Mongolian selection at Naadam Bar & Restaurant offers favourites such as beef or lamb tsuivan – chewy noodles with cucumber, carrot, onion and garlic – and mama’s khuushuur, deep-fried dough pastries filled with beef. More adventurous types can also order pan-fried beef liver with onion and mutton tail.

The nearby Choijin Temple Restaurant is a great option for Mediterranean dishes with a Mongolian twist. For something more exclusive, those with the right connections can book a table at Highland Park, a private members’ club located at the foot of Bogd Mountain and housed in a sleek chalet with beautiful views of the city.