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Travel & Hotels

Exploring Africa’s extremes on a luxury safari through Namibia and Botswana

STORYDivia Harilela
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge in Namibia. Photo: Handout
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge in Namibia. Photo: Handout
Africa

andBeyond resorts in the Namib Desert and the Okavango Delta – favoured by Prince Harry and Meghan Markle – bring different perspectives

I have never been to Mars, but I imagine this is what it would look like. It’s been a long, at times arduous journey but after a somewhat terrifying one-hour flight in a cramped four-seater propeller plane, I have arrived at a private airstrip surrounded by nothing except sand and craggy, granite mountains. We are on the eastern edge of the Namib Desert. It very much lives up to its name that in the local Nama language means “an area where there is nothing”. One of the world’s oldest, dating back at least 55 million years, the Namib is fabled for its towering sand dunes that stretch west all the way to the wild Atlantic coast.

At first glance, it’s hard to believe that anything can survive here, but it’s home to an astonishing group of desert-adapted wildlife that has thrived for millions of years. I’m here to embark on a different type of safari – one that is a far cry from the Big 5 (the supposed “must-sees” of lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo) or exhilarating game drives that have long made Africa a bucket-list destination. A short drive away is my home for the next few days, andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, which sits on a private reserve spanning over 12,700 hectares. It’s designed to blend into the dunescape that envelops it, and the glass and rock main building is topped with rust-coloured “canopies” that make a statement in sustainable design. This philosophy continues through to the 10 stand-alone suites, all of which have solar panels and water treatment systems.
The game drive experience at andBeyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge in Botswana. Photo: Handout
The game drive experience at andBeyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge in Botswana. Photo: Handout
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Encased entirely in glass, each 893 sq ft villa has an expansive living room, fireplace, indoor and outdoor showers and a generous private pool. No matter where you stand – bathroom included – you can bask in unobstructed desert vistas.

Luxury amenities aside, it’s the small, thoughtful details that stand out. A special hatch allows the butler to make discreet deliveries without my ever having to open the door. I can mix my own cocktails at the bespoke in-room bar stocked with every spirit imaginable plus freshly made snacks. There are also watercolours, paintbrushes and crayons for when I am feeling artistic, and a retractable roof ideal for stargazing.

As with traditional safaris, most activities take place in the early morning and late afternoon. There’s a huge variety on offer, ranging from outdoor bush breakfasts complete with table service and shakshuka cooked on a charcoal grill, to romantic sundowners on the dunes. Then you have the adventures – hot air ballooning, helicopter rides, ATV excursions, guided hikes and visits to ancient caves decorated with paintings by the San people, considered the oldest collection of indigenous groups in Africa.

A romantic dinner by the pool at andBeyond Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp in Botswana. Photo: Handout
A romantic dinner by the pool at andBeyond Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp in Botswana. Photo: Handout

High on everyone’s list is a visit to Namib-Naukluft National Park, which features some of the world’s largest and oldest sand dunes, including the tallest in the area, Big Daddy, at over 325 metres (1,066ft) high. Those with iron will and buns of steel can choose to climb its steep ridges. The sand seems to slide away underneath your every step, making the trek feel almost futile.

It’s still a worthwhile experience though, to take in panoramic views of colossal, undulating dunes spread out beneath you. I don’t think it can get any better until I slide down the dune barefoot, feeling the cool sand beneath my toes. At the bottom, I explore Deadvlei, a large pan of cracked clay, where 900-year-old petrified trees stand like a surreal scene from a Tim Burton movie.
While my visit to the dunes is epic, so is watching nature unfold. After a few days I can identify the piercing calls of the male korhaan bird. I squeal like a little girl when I spot a rare mountain zebra galloping across the desert plain like a mythical unicorn. Watching wild ostrich, oryx and springbok at the watering hole outside my suite feels more entertaining than any Netflix series. Night is another spectacle as the skies come alive. With the lodge located within one of the world’s few dark-sky reserves – an area that restricts light pollution – I can spot the Milky Way and shooting stars with my naked eye before heading to the on-site observatory, where a resident astrologer points out constellations and far-flung galaxies.
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is surrounded by dunes. Photo: Handout
andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is surrounded by dunes. Photo: Handout
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