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Leisure

Looking for a city break? Try a ryokan experience in Japan – from omotenashi hospitality and natural onsen at Wabizakura in Akita to the Japanese-royal-family-approved Gōra Kadan in Hakone

STORYJames Krick
Zaborin Ryokan’s rooms look out on traditional Japanese gardens, instantly soothing the mind. Photo: Ryokan Collection
Zaborin Ryokan’s rooms look out on traditional Japanese gardens, instantly soothing the mind. Photo: Ryokan Collection
Japan

  • In Japan, the epitome of chilling out is having a soak in an inn’s hot springs – and The Ryokan Collection is a good place to start, with over 47 luxury ryokans across the nation
  • From snowy Hokkaido to the subtropical beaches of Kyushu, the embrace of onsen and ryokan culture is varied – from offering an authentic taste of local life to the very best in luxury experience

Japan is a country famed for not doing things by halves. Devotion to, and focus on, the activity at hand – whether that be office work, hobbies or even house work – is seen as admirable, and the term majime (meaning dedicated, earnest or even serious, depending on the context), is seen as a trait to be commended.

This dedication and pursuit of perfection is even prevalent when it comes to leisure and relaxation. Japan offers some of the most elevated options for relaxation anywhere, for those who want to switch off and immerse themselves in every way. Nowhere is this better demonstrated than in the embrace of onsen and ryokan culture.

What could be better than bathing in the waters of an onsen under autumn foliage? Photo: Shutterstock
What could be better than bathing in the waters of an onsen under autumn foliage? Photo: Shutterstock

Origins of onsen culture

Onsen is the Japanese word for the naturally occurring hot springs that pepper the Japanese archipelago, from the frozen north of Hokkaido to the subtropical southern beaches of Kyushu.

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The Nihon Shoki, the so-called “Japanese chronicles”, finished in AD 720, talk of the origins of onsen culture, with references to people bathing in Arima, near Kobe and Dogo in Shikoku. Both of these baths are still in use today. Over the intervening centuries, inns or ryokans, resorts and other leisure facilities have grown up around the springs so that bathers can extend their break.

Rooms at Zaborin feature their own onsen-style outdoor baths. Photo: Ryokan Collection
Rooms at Zaborin feature their own onsen-style outdoor baths. Photo: Ryokan Collection

The bathing itself is much more than simply a chance to clean your body: in fact one of the most important rules when visiting an onsen is to be sure you wash yourself thoroughly before entering the bath. It is instead a ritual centred on cleansing yourself spiritually as well as physically.

This practice, with roots in Shinto beliefs, is said to offer cures and relief for a variety of ailments, with the different composition of water found up and down the country giving rise to a very particular kind of tourism.

A ryokan in Hanazono, promising travellers a place to rest and recuperate. Photo: Ryokan Collection
A ryokan in Hanazono, promising travellers a place to rest and recuperate. Photo: Ryokan Collection

Evolution of ryokan

Traditionally, the inns promised the weary traveller a place to rest, recuperate in the waters and enjoy a filling meal before they continued on their journey. Today, ryokans offer Japanese and international visitors alike an authentic taste of local life and ways to enjoy their time outside the water. Meals are often served in traditional tatami rooms in the style of a kaiseki course menu, perhaps showcasing seasonal ingredients sourced from the immediate area.

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