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Vicki Williams

Enjoying an indulgent meal with family and friends is a highlight of the festive season for many. Chefs are busier than ever creating seasonal specials at this time. We took time out with three of Hong Kong’s top chefs to share some of their favourite culinary Christmas memories, and provide a sneak peek into what they are serving at their respective restaurants this holiday season.
Franck-Elie Laloum at Louise

Franck-Elie Laloum, executive chef of French restaurant Louise, at PMQ in Central, Hong Kong, says in France, Christmas and food go hand in hand. “I think Christmas is automatically related to food in France.
“Fond Christmas memories, for me, are not so much focused on one specific day but more on the way we celebrate it in our family,” he says. “We spend Christmas Eve cooking, including roasting a large capon, and eating foie gras and oysters the entire night.”
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One of his most cherished food memories stems from his childhood in Provence. “There they have a Christmas tradition of consuming 13 different dessert foods over several days. In our family, we made or prepared them all, which included biscuits, nougat, calissons and bugnes, and, as you can imagine, as a young child this was so good.”

Family also influences the Christmas tasting menu that Laloum will be serving at Louise, which begins with a game pâté en croûte as the appetiser. “It reminds me of my childhood when we would prepare pâté with my father, who is also a chef.”
The dish, which is technically challenging to prepare, is a signature of the restaurant, and has been given an upgrade for Christmas – with Laloum’s special festive take featuring wild duck, pork, foie gras and black truffle, served with a leaf and pickled vegetable salad.
Other options on the four or five course menu, all featuring premium seasonal ingredients, include Normandy scallop cooked in the shell in seaweed butter served with a champagne sauce, and Brittany Dover sole cooked with black truffle, served with a pumpkin and hazelnut ravioli, finished with a vin jaune sauce.
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Simon Rogan of Roganic

Chef Simon Rogan will celebrate his British roots at his Roganic Hong Kong restaurant, based in Causeway Bay’s Sino Plaza, this Christmas. “The main course we will be serving is traditionally very British,” he begins.
That course is, you guessed it, roast turkey – family style, for dinner on Christmas Eve, and for lunch and dinner on Christmas Day – served with all the trimmings including roasted potatoes, truffle cauliflower cheese, braised red cabbage, roasted carrots, pigs in blankets, lots of gravy and, of course, Brussels sprouts. “We wanted to make a traditional Christmas lunch so that we can celebrate as a team and showcase what a British family would have on Christmas Day,” he adds.

Rogan says this festive indulgence is a departure from the norm, as his restaurants do not normally host special menus for Christmas. “These are flavours and textures that bring so many fond memories to the British chefs in the kitchen. We also hope the guests who may be missing home will really appreciate this familiar meal. Christmas Day is a time that brings many people together and we want to achieve something similar for all of our new friends and family in Hong Kong.”
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Turkey is something else that connects Rogan to his family and festive food memories. “One of my fondest memories is of a Christmas in Cartmel, in Cumbria, surrounded by my immediate family. We had turkey, duck and salmon for our Christmas feast and were all so full after that we couldn’t even make it on a short walk around the village.”

Other dishes on Roganic’s family feast include chestnut and truffle tart; Loch Duart smoked salmon, blinis and caviar; profiteroles; Christmas pudding with ice cream; and mince pies.
For those contemplating making their own Christmas spread, Rogan says detailed planning is key. “Also get the family to help with prep, doing as much as possible the day before.”
Cano Chan of Gradini Ristorante E Bar Italiano


For executive chef Cano Chan of Gradini Ristorante E Bar Italiano, in Central, Christmas is the season for family, reunions, love and giving, which all play a significant role in his choice of dessert. “We wish to deliver the message of love, sharing and support to our guests with the Gradini Christmas ball dessert, leaving a sweet memory with their family and friends,” he says.
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The Instagram-worthy dessert, to be served on Christmas Eve, will feature a dark chocolate ball that guests crack open, revealing a white chocolate mousse interior topped with chocolate crumbs and two mini macaroons. “It offers a harmonious balance of flavours with multiple layers and textures.”
It was inspired by the time Chan proposed to his wife, which remains his most treasured seasonal moment. “Actually, it has taken some time for me to craft the dessert; inspired by my wife, and the romantic moment when I proposed to her at Christmas. We had been in love for almost 10 years and had planned to become engaged but I was intent on delivering a memorable proposal. I created a Christmas crystal ball and put a ring inside, and after savouring a Christmas feast, I presented this special dessert to her and proposed.”

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The romantic chef says that every moment spent with his wife and child remains a fond Christmas memory for him. “Since taking over the helm of Gradini, I have spent more time in the kitchen in the past few years, but I do still try to squeeze in some time to celebrate Christmas with my family.”
Of course, no Italian Christmas, even a modern restaurant one, would be complete without handmade pasta. Chan will be serving handmade tortellini with porcini mushroom, cheese and black truffle sauce on Christmas Eve, and handmade squid ink and lobster ravioli as part of the dinner tasting menu the following day on December 25.
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Head to Roganic Hong Kong for roast turkey with all the trimmings, while PMQ’s French restaurant Louise is serving seasonal game pâté en croûte and Gradini Ristorante E Bar Italiano will present a special chocolate dessert ball


Head to Roganic for roast turkey with all the traditional trimmings, while PMQ’s Louise is serving seasonal game pâté en croûte
