Why is Furano in rural Hokkaido home to so many Michelin-star restaurants?

We are two hours into lunch and the degustation courses show no signs of slowing down in quality – or quantity. Valore looks like a little countryside home from the outside, and inside, there is space for only a handful of diners while chef Saida-san rustles up his Michelin-starred Italian-Japanese creations. His wife emerges bearing plates that feature mushrooms from Tokachi, duck from Takikawa, local snapper, daikon in rainbow colours, served Italian style. The uni spaghetti is creamy, al dente, perfect.

We are in Biei, near Furano, a part of Japan that is home to eight Michelin-starred restaurants, a phenomenal count in such a rustic district. Our guide, Narita-san, explains, “The surrounding farmland produces quality local meat and dairy, and the wide temperature differences between cool nights and hot days in summer, plus fresh water from the mountains, make very sweet vegetables.”