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Divia Harilela

Contributing writer for Style by SCMP, specialising in fashion, beauty and lifestyle


The white trainer – or sneaker, if you prefer – is a fashion essential in wardrobes everywhere, and for good reason. This versatile, everyday shoe has had its moment in the spotlight both on and off the runway thanks to its mass appeal and versatility.
Today you can find a pair to fit any style and budget, from sports and high street brands to designer labels. They’ve been embraced by celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow and Emily Ratajkowski, and high profile sportsmen like Roger Federer (the tennis star even created his own collection for cult brand On).

“The white sneaker has become a staple of modern dress. It reflects a cultural change where casual wear isn’t just accepted: it signifies a certain freedom,” explain Flavio Girolami and Prathan Peter Poopat, founders of luxury trainer brand Common Projects.
“A well-crafted white sneaker is minimal yet intentional, fitting seamlessly into both relaxed and refined wardrobes. It’s a symbol of effortless sophistication, proving that style today is more about personal expression than rigid dress codes,” says the duo.

There was a time when white trainers weren’t considered the arbiter of cool. Conservative American brand Keds, which was founded in 1916, has often claimed credit for creating the first pair, which was more sensible than stylish. During the years that followed, white trainers were pigeonholed as a sports essential thanks to their proliferation on tennis and basketball courts. Even Converse’s now bestselling Chuck Taylor sneakers debuted at the 1936 Olympics as a shoe worn by the US basketball team.
It wasn’t until the 60s and 70s that white “kicks” – a term coined by streetwear fans – started to transition off the courts. Sportswear brand Adidas made waves with classic styles like its Stan Smith and Superstar models. Chuck Taylor high-tops became a mainstay with cool kids. Brands like Nike dominated in the 1980s with now cult favourites like its Air Force 1.

The designer-fication of white trainers took a little longer to catch on. In the 1990s, brands such as Prada launched sports lines, mainly appealing to men looking for designer shoes for more casual outings. Standard materials like canvas were replaced by more luxe fabrics such as leather, and design details elevated these styles further.
The rise of athleisure in the 2010s empowered many to include white trainers as part of their daily uniform. Women everywhere, from high-powered executives and gallerists, to fashion editors and stylish mums, were snapped styling their pairs in cool and unexpected ways.

Even former Celine designer Phoebe Philo chose white Stan Smiths as her personal style signature. Supermodel Gisele Bündchen appeared in a 2013 issue of French Vogue wearing a pair. The brand reissued the shoe the following year and it became a cult favourite, this time with a new stylish crowd. It was official: the white trainer had become a permanent part of the fashion lexicon.
The industry was quick to catch on. Every designer brand since then has produced its own take on the trend, including Celine, whose sporty and “dad” styles became a fashion favourite. Gucci appealed to the flashy with its embellished versions, while Mihara Yasuhiro’s styles with frayed edges attracted the cool and understated. Others like Saint Laurent and Italian brand Slowear (its women’s white leather trainer is still a bestseller at their only boutique in Milan) offer a classic white style season after season.

The market also welcomed a group of independent brands dedicated to this new must-have, including Common Projects, which became ubiquitous thanks to its minimalist styles like the Achilles.
“At the time, many sneakers were either overly sporty, trend driven or over-designed. We wanted to introduce a model that combined the quality of a luxury dress shoe with the wearability of a classic sneaker. It wasn’t just about making a fashion statement – it was about delivering longevity, subtlety and exceptional craftsmanship that stood apart,” say Girolami and Poopat.

Now we are spoiled for choice. Other must-have brands include Golden Goose, based in Italy, whose white trainers are pre-scuffed, giving them a cool, worn-in look. Also popular is French brand Veja, known for its thorough approach to sustainability and its collaborations with the likes of Rick Owens.
With so much on offer, trends within the category have also evolved.
“While white sneakers are classic, the style needs to be switched up. It’s like tailoring never goes out of style but you go from oversized to short, to long to fitted. It doesn’t mean the jacket is wrong, it’s just about the silhouette,” says fashion strategist, Sarah Rutson.

“I always had white sneakers, but for the past four years I have gone more retro with them to make them feel more relevant and modern. I am now opting for a sportier style with a pair of oversized trousers, because I feel it’s moving away from my personal everyday fashion parlance,” she says.
Rutson isn’t the only one moving towards sportier versions. Fashion industry buyers have noticed a trend towards more casual styles that tread the line between sporty and elegant. Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer at Mytheresa, says On’s collaboration with Loewe, and brands like Golden Goose are still resonating with women. Sophie Jordan, menswear buying director at Mytheresa, has also noticed a growing demand for more casual takes on the all-white trainer, including Bottega Veneta’s Orbit and Loewe’s Ballet Runner.

“Within white sneakers we are performing very well with a ‘court’ style sneaker; they have a sports-looking element to them but they are minimal enough to be worn both smart and casually,” she says.
As with all fashion staples, the challenge is reinventing the wheel to keep buyers interested. Constantly updating their design, whether in terms of silhouettes, materials or details is essential, but the real difference comes down to how you wear them.

“We love to see [white trainers] styled in unexpected ways – paired with sharp tailoring for a striking contrast or combined with relaxed denim and a crisp knit for an effortlessly cool everyday look. The beauty of the white sneaker lies in its ability to complement any outfit without overwhelming it,” say Girolami and Poopat.


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Emily Ratajkowski is chic in white sneakers, out and about in New York last year. Photo: GC Images

Common Projects women’s white sneakers. Photo: Handout

Adidas x Stella McCartney at Mytheresa. Photo: Handout 

Phoebe Philo wears white sneakers to acknowledge the audience at the end of the Celine spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear show in 2014, in Paris. Photo: AFP via Getty Images

Saint Laurent at Mytheresa. Photo: Handout

White sneakers by Veja. Photo: Handout

Loewe x On sneakers, from Lowee’s fall/winter 2024 collection. Photo: Handout

Loewe sneakers at Mytheresa. Photo: Handout

Gwyneth Paltrow steps out in white sneakers last year, in Paris. Photo: GC Images

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From Prada’s sports lines of the 1990s to the rise of athleisure in the 2010s, white sneakers have emerged as a fashion must-have, with Saint Laurent, On, Bottega Veneta and Veja leading the sprint


From Prada’s sports lines of the 1990s to the rise of athleisure in the 2010s, white sneakers have emerged as a fashion must-have, with Saint Laurent, On, Bottega Veneta and Veja leading the sprint.
