Haider Ackermann’s second renaissance: Tom Ford and Canada Goose’s new creative director was once considered to head up Dior but dismissed by Berluti – and dresses Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet

Dec 10 , 2024

Colombian-born French fashion designer Haider Ackermann is enjoying a comeback. Photo: Handout

Known for his artistic vision and cross-cultural references, the designer is experiencing a resurgence as he brings his signature aesthetic to brands seeking fresh direction

The many eras of designer Haider Ackermann read a little bit like a 21st century fashion fairy tale, with a cast of characters consisting of the industry’s most respected names. Humble beginnings interning with celebrated couturier John Galliano and working with commercial brands led Ackermann to launch his own eponymous label in the early 2000s. He was considered for fashion’s biggest jobs by the end of the decade, tapped to lead Maison Margiela and even potentially take over his former boss Galliano’s job at the helm of Dior.

A model presents a creation for Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2017. Photo: Handout

Over 20 years later, Ackermann is now experiencing his second renaissance. In May, he was appointed the first-ever creative director of Canada Goose – an unexpected move meant to modernise and expand on the outerwear manufacturer’s offerings. Just months later, he was also named the creative director of Tom Ford, tasked with reinvigorating the American label, which hasn’t generated nearly as much buzz since the departure of its namesake founder.

Ethan Hawke stars in Haider Ackermann’s latest Snow Goose by Canada Goose campaign. Photo: Handout

“It’s been quite challenging times, in the sense that I’ve been touching many different spectrums of what my industry is,” says Ackermann when asked about his ample fashion credentials and most recent appointments. Both were intended to bring his star power and signature aesthetic to brands in need of fresh direction and renewed energy.

“Whether it was related to beauty with Augustinus Bader, haute couture with Jean Paul Gaultier, then sportswear with Fila, and now, of course, Canada Goose’s outerwear, and Tom Ford, which is suiting and ready-to-wear,” Ackermann continues. “It feels like I’ve been through this roller coaster that is just extraordinary, to touch all those fields and travel roads that normally would not be there for me and would be a challenge.”

Kylie Jenner in Jean Paul Gaultier x Haider Ackermann at the 2023 Met Gala. Photo: @kyliejenner/Instagram

Soon enough he addresses the elephant in the room: “It’s at least been, since I’m not doing my brand any more, very fortunate to speak different languages and enter someone’s field, to try to understand and learn it.”

It was seemingly at the peak of his powers when things took a turn for the Colombian-born, Belgian-educated and now France-based designer towards the end of the past decade. After a high-profile stint at Berluti was cut short just three seasons in, Ackermann was unceremoniously sacked by his own label due to internal disagreements with his former business partner Anne Chapelle.

Haider Ackermann acknowledges the public at the end of the Berluti show during men’s fashion week for the fall/winter 2017-18 collection in Paris. Photo: AFP