Katy Perry and Kylie Jenner are fans of Mach & Mach, Beyoncé wore Paris Texas over-the-knee boots on her Cowboy Carter album cover, and Bella Hadid favours Dear Frances mesh ballerina flats
It may be that heavyweights like Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik dominate shoe closets and magazine pages around the world, but that doesn’t mean they’re the only players in the footwear game.
As the category grows and expands, shoes are back in the spotlight as more independent brands and designers come to the fore.
A look from Ancuta Sarca’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. The Romanian-born, London-based designer is known for her Instagram-worthy heels made by upcycling existing shoes or garments, or using deadstock leathers. Photo: Handout
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“It’s been a while since there’s been a mega shoe brand, but there’s also been a shift in how people buy and wear shoes,” explains stylist and consultant Kim Bui Kollar.
“It’s no longer the era of the emotional shoe, when women would buy a specific style and work their look around that. Now we belong to different style tribes and are choosing shoes to reflect or express this,” she says.
From Italian-trained shoemaker Jane Frances, London-based label Dear Frances is known for its easy elegance, and impeccable craftsmanship and quality. Photo: Dear Frances
Unlike their predecessors, who focused more on silhouettes, this new breed of shoe designer is taking into account the modern woman’s lifestyle, while proposing their own distinctive designs. Take for example British label Le Monde Beryl, which has struck a chord with its stylish ballerina flats, which are reinterpreted in new iterations and fabrications each season. Georgian label Mach & Mach has become a go-to for its glamorous and feminine statement styles such as its double-bow pumps, which are quickly overshadowing Amina Muaddi’s Cinderella heels. Meanwhile, LA label Camilla Gabrieli is making waves with pumps and slingbacks featuring decorative heels embellished with pearls, leather flowers and other accents.
Founded by Florence native Maria Sole Cecchi, Les Petits Joueurs combines Italian craftsmanship with playful, statement styles that blend vintage and futuristic elements. Photo: Les Petits Joueurs
“These brands are also offering multiple styles and price points within their own unique aesthetic, which is what makes them all the more attractive,” says Kollar.
This isn’t the only plus point for buyers. These newer brands are also embracing values that are important to the next generation, such as exclusivity and sustainability. The latter lies at the heart of Ancuta Sarca, a London-based brand known for its Instagram-worthy heels made by upcycling existing shoes or garments, or using deadstock leathers. They have become increasingly popular among Gen Z consumers who want to be stylish and eco-conscious.
Crystal Studs black patent leather pumps from Mach & Mach, a Tbilisi, Georgia-based label founded by sisters Nina and Gvantsa Macharashvili. Photo: Mach & Mach
