Paris Fashion Week 2025: Tom Ford welcomed Haider Ackermann, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s likely Dior swansong, Stella McCartney went back to work, and Jun Takahashi celebrated 35 years of Undercover
Indie label Zomer dressed models backwards, Takahashi was inspired by punk and Patti Smith, Chiuri took notes from the late Gianfranco Ferré, and McCartney put an end to work-from-home dressing down
Things kicked off in earnest with a fun outing from indie label Zomer, helmed by Dutch duo Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha. The pair delighted guests with a “back-to-front” show that began with the finale walk, then stuck to the whimsical if slightly gimmicky theme with garments that included jackets, shirts and trousers worn “the wrong way round”, so to speak.
Meanwhile Undercover’s Jun Takahashi mesmerised his many fans with one of the best shows so far. An avowed lover of punk, the designer, who celebrates the 35th anniversary of his label this year, created an imaginary wardrobe for one of his idols, rock star Patti Smith.
Muses aside, Takahashi’s signature take on preppy and sportswear never gets old.
This season, he piled on the embellishments – think beads, chains, tassels, badges, pins, buttons, label tags and more – on garments that were also partly inspired by the plush sculptures of French artist Anne-Valerie Dupond. The botanical prints, the sweatpants and hoodies created in collaboration with American sportswear giant Champion, as well as the sculptural puffer dresses that closed the show, were the best looks.
Takahashi also offered some great footwear, from his beloved creepers to embellished pumps and leather slippers with lyrics from the jazz standard “But Beautiful” embroidered in gold.
