Can Hedi Slimane really replace Phoebe Philo at Celine?

The recent news that French photographer and fashion designer Hedi Slimane has been appointed creative director of French luxury house Céline has taken the industry by storm. Lovers of Phoebe Philo – the “Philophiles” – are, of course, saddened by her departure from this role at Céline; but the Slimane cult are celebrating. 

What is certain, however, is that the next Céline show at fashion week in September is already stirring a sense of anticipation, and – when it does finally come round – will be the most hotly discussed and debated event within the fashion bubble.

For me, Slimane made a huge and lasting impression at the Saint Laurent 2015 Spring/Summer (SS15) menswear fashion show. 

The collection may not have been considered the most inspirational or monumental by industry insiders, but there was something about the soundtrack – Bright Blue Day Haze, by 60s revivalist band Mystic Braves – combined with the futuristically extravagant setting, and the slimmest of human beings striding down the runway in glamorous rock ‘n’ roll ensembles, that hit me really hard. I became obsessive about the whole show.

Critics often claim that Slimane creates nothing new, that he merely borrows from the past. But in doing so he creates something fresh and luxurious. I think this is what makes Slimane a genius. One could almost say he is not a clothing designer, but a master in creating the mood. 

At the SS15 menswear show, Slimane seemed to put the spirit of the 60s on the runway – cowboy hats, ponchos, snakeskin Chelsea boots, embroidered jeans. Everything was predictable, yet also enticing. The models moved about so quickly that it was impossible to focus on a single look. 

But the theatricality masterminded by Slimane drew me in deep and still lingers in my memory, alongside the effortless sexiness apparent in his black and white photography documenting the restless youth of California.