Maria Grazia Chiuri steps out with fencing-themed collection for Christian Dior
The brand's first female creative director balances toughness and fragility in her debut for Dior at Paris Fashion Week
“I strive to be attentive and open to the world and to create fashion that resembles the women of today,” Maria Grazia Chiuri says in the show notes.
Dior’s first female creative director has brought a new perspective to the heritage house synonymous with the femininity of French couture.
Unlike the lavish floral sets often seen during Raf Simons’ reign, Chiuri brought the show to the Musee Rodin. Guests were welcomed by the master’s iconic pieces such as The Kiss as they arrived for the show.
Model Ruth Bell opened the show in a white ensemble inspired by a the fencing outfit, a quilted vest with side strap closures worn on top of a white shirt matched with breeches and sporty slip-on shoes with an embroidered bee motif and the “CD” initials.
“Fencing is a discipline in which there is balance between thought and action,” says Chiuri. “The harmony between mind and heart is essential.”
The fencing theme brought streetwear and sporty influences to the collection - think technical and graphic bralet featuring elastic straps adorned with the words “J’adior” and slogan T-shirts featuring the phrase “We should all be feminists” or “DIO( R)EVOLUTION” that would appeal to a new and younger customer base.
The juxtaposition of toughness and fragility continues throughout the collection. Skirts rendered in tulle, silk chiffon and georgette are lavishly embellished and embroidered with zodiac signs and tarot figures appearing like pieces of art, and matched with lightly quilted and embroidered tank tops.
For accessories, Chiuri has brought back Dior logos on shoes and bags as well as bee-embroideries. The top handle satchel with a retro-esque CD clasp and vintage monogram print matched with wide shoulder strap and the box clutch with elaborate tarot prints were some of the standouts.
Dior’s celebrity fans came out en masse for Chiuri’s debut at the house. Jennifer Lawrence, Rihanna, Natalie Portman, Kate Moss were among those on the front row. Chiuri’s designer friends Alber Albaz, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Giambattista Valli also turned out to support.