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Divia Harilela

Contributing writer for Style by SCMP, specialising in fashion, beauty and lifestyle


There are some beauty products that always spark a fierce debate. Chief among them are face oils. Over the years they have fallen in and out of favour no matter which celebrity is using them – Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Middleton and Jennifer Aniston are all fans – or what’s trending on TikTok (the most popular is still Biossance’s Squalane and Vitamin C Rose Oil).
Love or hate them, face oils have a long history and date back to ancient Egypt and Rome, where plant-based varieties like castor, sesame and olive were used for skincare, bathing and even in religious rituals.

Over the years, various cultures have adopted oils in traditional beauty rituals, from the Chinese, who originally used peanut oil for gua sha, to the Indians, who swear by kumkumadi, a natural Ayurvedic preparation featuring herbs and plants like saffron in sesame oil. Now, numerous countries produce their own prized oils such as argan (Morocco), marula (South Africa), moringa (Thailand) and camellia (Japan).
Why is it, then, that face oils still have a bad reputation despite having played a fundamental role in beauty arsenals for centuries?
“People assume they’ll clog pores, make you break out or replace your moisturiser – and none of that is universally true,” says Dr Mamina Turegano, a dermatologist based in New Orleans.
“The biggest misconception is that ‘oil equals acne’, when in reality, the right oil can actually help balance your skin, support your barrier and reduce inflammation,” she says.

The truth of the matter is that most oils cannot be taken at face value (pardon the pun). While most may feel soothing upon application, they are not designed to hydrate. Instead, their main purpose is to seal in moisture and create a protective physical barrier that prevents water from evaporating from the skin. As such, selecting the right oil can be extremely personal depending on your skin type and other factors.
“Not all oils behave the same on the skin. Their performance depends on the purity and quality of the raw material, the method of extraction and the synergistic actives infused within the formulation. When these elements are aligned, oils can deliver highly bioavailable nourishment and enhance overall skin function,” explains Nick Irani, co-founder of skincare brand Subtle Energies.

To begin with, experts suggest starting with a single blend oil that suits your skin type. Opt for cold-pressed or minimally refined oils as they tend to retain more antioxidants and nutrients, which can make them more effective and gentler on the skin. Turegano recommends jojoba for sensitive or reactive skin as it is hypoallergenic and has a similar molecular structure to human sebum.
Oilier skin types can benefit from rosehip, which is lightweight and rich in linoleic acid, while dry skin will suit richer oils like marula or squalene. Antioxidant-rich oils like argan can be especially helpful for evening out skin tone and hyperpigmentation.

While a single oil can be effective, blends are becoming more popular because they offer targeted benefits and address several skin needs with their combination of actives and hi-tech ingredients.
“A blend allows us to combine different lipids, antioxidants and soothing agents in precise ratios to support the skin’s ecosystem more effectively,” says Christiane Werron, executive director of global education and spa at cult brand Augustinus Bader.
“To elevate a single oil, the most effective additions are antioxidants, barrier-strengthening lipids and protective actives. Antioxidants such as vitamin E help defend against environmental stress and premature ageing, while targeted lipids reduce water loss and reinforce the skin’s natural moisture barrier,” she says.

The latest generation of oils combines science with nature. The Face Oil by Augustinus Bader features a botanical blend of oils infused with amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants like pomegranate and rosemary, while Tata Harper’s newly launched Superkind Bio-Shield Face Oil highlights natural adaptogens like holy basil and reishi mushroom to soothe inflammation. Anti-ageing powerhouses also headline 111Skin’s Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil, while peptides feature in Révive’s Rescue Elixir Anti-Aging Oil to stimulate collagen and boost elasticity.
“Some of the most innovative pairings I’m seeing are oils with gentle actives like bakuchiol, barrier-soothing ingredients like bisabolol, or botanicals such as centella (cica) to calm and repair the skin. You’re also seeing next-gen nutrient-dense oils like cacay or sea buckthorn added for extra antioxidant and vitamin support. These combinations take a basic oil and turn it into something more targeted, effective and skin-balancing,” says Turegano.

Once you have chosen the right oil, how you use it is equally important. Skincare founder Tata Harper says that as a golden rule, facial oils should only be used as the very last step in your beauty routine at night, following your serum and moisturiser. In the morning, it should be applied a few minutes before sunscreen and make-up so that it has time to absorb into the skin.
Turegano also highlights application techniques. In many cultures, oil is always combined with massage – for example, the Chinese practice of gua sha includes the use of oil to boost effectiveness – as it can deliver nutrients more effectively and support the skin’s natural renewal processes.

“Massage can make a big difference. It helps the oil spread more evenly, boosts circulation, supports lymphatic drainage and enhances absorption. Even 30 to 60 seconds of gentle massage can make your skin look more lifted, de-puffed and glowy. And it turns the oil into more of a treatment than just a finishing step,” she says.
Once you find your perfect oil it may be tempting to use it all year round, but like other skincare products they can be updated depending on the season and your skin needs.
“Seasonal changes affect the skin significantly. In cold weather or dry indoor environments, the skin loses more water, and hydration alone is not enough. A lipid shield becomes essential. You do not need to change oils frequently, only when your skin’s needs shift due to climate, lifestyle or treatment changes,” adds Warren.


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Wellness

Experts say these oils balance your skin and reduce inflammation – celebrities like Princess Kate, Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow agree


Experts say these oils balance your skin and reduce inflammation – celebrities like Princess Kate, Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow agree.


The truth about face oils, which have been part of beauty regimens since ancient Egypt

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Experts say these oils balance your skin and reduce inflammation – celebrities like Princess Kate, Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow agree

Experts say these oils balance your skin and reduce inflammation – celebrities like Princess Kate, Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow agree