Hair repair: what bond-building treatments are, how they work at a molecular level to repair damage, and how to choose the right beauty product with ingredients scientifically proven to work

Jun 20 , 2024

Once available only in hair salons, bond builders can now be bought in local stores. Photos: Handout

Hair care products from Aveda and Living Proof feature special formulas designed to repair and strengthen damaged hair, and help maintain strength and elasticity

Olaplex boasts a patented molecule, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, while K18 has its own peptide – but buyers beware beauty products that only claim to help build bonds

One of the most significant beauty revolutions of the past decade has been the migration of bond repair treatments from the exclusive lands of hair salons to the shelves of local stores. These formulas promise to breathe life back into damaged hair, reducing frizz, enhancing shine, and reviving its youthful vitality.

Initially a service offered by professional stylists, bond-building treatments are now accessible for everyone to use at home. However, amid their rising popularity, experts caution against the influx of products labelled as “bond builders”, warning that not all are as effective as they claim.

Here’s what you need to know.

What are hair bonds?

Bond builders, such as Aveda’s Botanical Repair, work by repairing damaged disulfide bonds in the hair

Bond-building treatments are specialised formulas designed to repair and strengthen hair by addressing damage at structural level. “These treatments work by targeting and repairing disulfide bonds, which are crucial for maintaining the hair’s strength and elasticity,” says Ohio-based hair stylist Kaitlyn Jones.

Effective bond-building treatments act on a molecular level. Pictured here is K18’s Biomimetic Hairscience mask

Disulfide bonds can be broken down by chemical processes like colouring and bleaching, mechanical stress such as brushing and heat styling, and environmental factors including UV exposure and humidity. “Effective bond builders feature active ingredients that act at a molecular level to repair and rebuild these broken bonds, essentially healing the hair from within,” Jones adds.

What are the benefits of bond-building treatments?

Hair health is affected by numerous factors, and bond builders help by reducing breakage and improving texture and appearance. A model is pictured before and after using Living Proof’s Triple Bond Complex treatment

Primarily, they repair bonds broken by chemical, thermal and mechanical stress, leading to significant damage repair. With regular use, these treatments contribute to stronger and more resilient hair, enhancing its natural structure and ability to withstand future damage.

“They also help reduce breakage and improve overall hair health. Additionally, they enhance the texture and appearance of hair, making it look healthier, feel smoother, and become easier to manage,” Jones points out. Another notable benefit is the preservation of hair colour – by strengthening the hair, bond builders help maintain colour vibrancy and reduce fading, extending the life of your hair colour and improving its overall aesthetic.

What is the science behind bond builders?

Olaplex uses a patented molecule, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, to help to repair disulfide bonds