Slow travel: to the Philippine paradise of Palawan by bus and ferry, with a stop to dive in Puerto Galera

Jeep, bus, minivans, ferries – we island-hop our way to the pearly white beaches, karst cliffs, coral reefs and rainforests of Palawan for a spot of snorkelling

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Maremegmeg Beach, El Nido, Palawan, Philippines. The island known for its white sand beaches, coral reefs, karst cliffs and rich wildlife can be reached by air, but why not take the slow road and enjoy the journey? Photo; Thomas Bird

Thomas Bird

Published: 1:15pm, 16 Sep 2023

On a map of the Philippines, Palawan resembles a keris, a short Malay sword.

Ecologists call the Sulu Sea castaway the “last frontier” due to its unique flora and fauna – wildlife that has more in common with that in nearby Borneo than the rest of the Philippine archipelago.

That – along with its unique geology, coral reefs and pearly white beaches – is why glossy magazines rank the island province as being among Asia’s best.

The obvious way to reach the island from Manila would be by air, but domestic flights are antithetical to the spirit of travel, not to mention polluting. So in a vain attempt to offset my carbon footprint, I hop into a diesel-belching Jeepney, the first leg of a voyage to Palao-Yu, “the land of the beautiful harbour”, as the Chinese dubbed Palawan 1,000 years ago, during the Song dynasty (960-1279).

Brightly coloured, minibus-like Jeepneys in heavy traffic in Manila, in the Philippines. Photo: Shutterstock

At the chaotic Buendia Bus Terminal, I board a coach for Batangas, 100km (60 miles) to the south.

At Batangas Pier, I push past street hustlers to purchase a ticket for the last of the day’s fast ferries across the Verde Island Passage, to Oriental Mindoro.