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‘There are cow horns with poo’: a vineyard tour of McLaren Vale, centre of biodynamic winemaking in Australia

  • McLaren Vale in South Australia, famous for rich shiraz wines, is proud to be one of the nation’s most progressive and environmentally sustainable growing regions
  • We visit vineyards that are future-proofing their vines against climate change, and creating organic wines that are as great-tasting as they are sustainable

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McLaren Vale, famous for rich shiraz wines, is one of Australia’s most progressive and environmentally sustainable wine-growing regions. Photo : McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association
Rebecca Foreman

A 45-minute motorway drive south of Adelaide airport is the heart of McLaren Vale, 7,438 hectares (18,380 acres) of lush coastal vineyards.

This part of South Australia is known for bold, rich shiraz, but it is also one of the country’s most progressive and environmentally sustainable growing regions, producing wines crafted from classic and emerging grape varieties.

McLaren Vale leads the way in terms of organic practices, water management and climate-appropriate planting. The topography helps.

The region is surrounded by a horseshoe of hills, the Mount Lofty Ranges, with a valley that runs to the Gulf St Vincent. Temperatures rarely hit extreme highs or lows, meaning yields tend to be excellent.

Chester Osborn, the owner of d’Arenberg winery, in front of the d’Arenberg Cube, a five-storey building that includes the Singapore Circus restaurant, a wine tasting room and the Alternate Realities Museum. Photo: d’Arenberg
Chester Osborn, the owner of d’Arenberg winery, in front of the d’Arenberg Cube, a five-storey building that includes the Singapore Circus restaurant, a wine tasting room and the Alternate Realities Museum. Photo: d’Arenberg

I have come to McLaren Vale to visit some of its green wineries, meet the owners and find out how they are preparing for climate breakdown, while acting as the designated driver for my wine-loving husband.

We begin at d’Arenberg, a name familiar to many wine aficionados. The largest biodynamic certified grower of wine grapes in Australia, d’Arenberg is in the centre of McLaren Vale.

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