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Borobudur and Prambanan: two Indonesian temples to rival Angkor Wat

  • The two sites are among the world’s largest and most elaborate temple complexes, one Buddhist, one Hindu
  • Located near Yogyakarta, on the island of Java, one is best viewed at sunrise, the other at sunset

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Borobudur on Java, Indonesia, is the world’s largest Buddhist temple. Photo: Alamy

In an era when everything has been not only “discovered” and written about, but also Instagrammed and emblazoned on a T-shirt, it’s hard not to feel a little envious of world travellers from days past. For me, this sentiment is rarely more acute than when weaving through the crowds at ancient temples and imagining how it must have felt to stumble on such sites in relative solitude.

Even so, there’s something innately thrilling about clambering around monuments built by bygone civilisations and playing the intrepid explorer. While Angkor Wat has long been Asia’s go-to destination for those seeking to live out their Indiana Jones fantasies, the storied Cambodian site has a worthy rival in the twin temple complexes of Borobudur and Prambanan, near Yogyakarta, in central Java, Indonesia.
Although about 40km apart and built by acolytes of different religions, the temple sites share a number of similarities that unite them as a fascinating double act. Both were built in the 9th century and subsequently abandoned, falling into grievous states of disrepair before being “rediscovered” by the forces of Thomas Stamford Raffles, the British lieutenant governor of the Dutch East Indies in the early 19th century.

They have been gradually restored to something approaching their former glories and granted Unesco World Heritage status. Today, they are two of Indonesia’s most visited attractions.

Borobodur temple, viewed from below. Photo: Alamy
Borobodur temple, viewed from below. Photo: Alamy

Each is best viewed at a different time – Borobudur at sunrise and Prambanan at sunset – which not only adds to the sense of symmetry but also makes it easy (although not necessarily advisable) to see both in one day. Like most visitors, I opt to start my explorations at Borobudur, first checking into a Rumah Dharma traditional cottage, set amid rice fields and within easy reach of the complex.

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