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How life is changing for Thailand’s Karen tribe

The Karen Hilltribes Trust is transforming lives through sustainable development in Thailand’s remote Mae Hong Son province, one village at a time

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Early morning in Thailand's Mae Hong Son province.
Paul Ehrlich

It’s a chilly early morning in Thailand’s Mae Hong Son province and the forest-covered hills and mountains, now wrapped in misty cloud, seem relatively untouched for a country eager to develop. This area has long been home to hill tribes that live off the land, cultivate crops and preserve age-old customs as the world around them changes.

Our four-wheel-drive van ascends along narrow, winding, slippery and steep mud roads, with sharp drop-offs and no rail guards. Through the occasional clearing, valleys of emerald-green rice fields can be seen far below.

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The driver jerks the steering wheel left and right to keep the van steady. It’s still the rainy season (June to October) and landslides are common. Villages can be cut off for weeks, even months.

“It’s like driving on a birthday cake,” quips the driver. As the van rocks wildly, I ask why he’s not wearing a seat belt. “Not a good idea if the vehicle starts to slide over the cliff. I want to jump out quickly.” I wait for a laugh, but none comes. I quickly unbuckle.

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Villagers Mae Hong Son province. Picture: Karen Hilltribes Trust
Villagers Mae Hong Son province. Picture: Karen Hilltribes Trust
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