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Life.Culture.Discovery.

Reflections | How chilli peppers in China were a substitute for salt before becoming widely popular

  • Spicy food is ubiquitous these days, as Denmark’s recall of too-spicy instant noodles showed. But it was not always that way

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Chinese farmers pick chilis in Hainan province. Centuries ago the chilli pepper was a salt substitute for the minority Miao people of southwest China, and unknown elsewhere in the country. Photo: Getty Images

Recently, Denmark recalled three flavours of instant noodles for being too spicy.

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The country’s food and health authorities had assessed the levels of capsaicin in a single packet of Buldak instant noodles, made by South Korean company Samyang, to be “so high that they pose a risk of the consumer developing acute poisoning”, especially children, for whom extremely spicy food can cause harm.

I used to like spicy food. According to my parents, I was already something of a curry connoisseur shortly after I started on solid foods. I am in my early fifties now, and my tolerance for spicy foods has diminished, which, my doctor friends assure me, is quite normal for many people as they age.

To be sure, I still like the piquant kick that chilli peppers give to certain foods. It is the after-effects that make me think twice about dipping my tortilla chips in that extra-hot salsa. Let’s just say that if I did that, I am not going to be very sociable the following day.

Instant Buldak 2 x Spicy Chicken Ramen noodles from South Korean company Samyang similar to the ones recalled from stores by Danish health authorities for being dangerously spicy. Photo: EPA-EFE
Instant Buldak 2 x Spicy Chicken Ramen noodles from South Korean company Samyang similar to the ones recalled from stores by Danish health authorities for being dangerously spicy. Photo: EPA-EFE

Like dairy products – another much-loved comestible my older self has diminished tolerance for – my body’s response to spicy foods is selective.

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While I am usually fine with freshly cut chillis or the powdered stuff, such as the Korean gochugaru, the combination of chillis with oil and certain spices is where I meet my Waterloo, as it were. So most varieties of sambal, which I love, are off limits, as are many hot sauces.
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