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Then & Now | Soybeans: healthy and full of protein, they’ve fed China for centuries – here’s how they’re processed, their products, and why they have a lesbian link

  • Soybeans have provided varied sources of taste and nutrition in China, and other parts of East Asia, for more than 2,000 years
  • They are made into products including soy sauce, tofu, bean curd skin and milk, while a particularly vulgar Cantonese euphemism links them to lesbians

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Soybean products include tofu, tofu pudding and soy milk. Photo: SCMP

Among the healthiest and most easily digestible sources of vegetable protein, the humble soybean – known in Cantonese as daai dau (“great bean”) – has provided varied sources of taste and nutrition in China, and other parts of East Asia, for more than 2,000 years.

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Soybeans are produced in massive quantities all over the world, principally in Australia, Canada, the United States and – increasingly – on vast farms carved in virgin rainforest in the interior of Brazil.

Most soybeans are not destined for direct human consumption, however; much of the world’s soybean output is further processed for use as a high-protein animal food.

Annually increasing pork production in China has driven constant demand for soybeans for the past three decades.

When supply-chain disruptions occur due to human conflict – such as in Ukraine – or climate-related crop failures, increases in the price of soybeans are immediately noticeable elsewhere.

Soy sauce is one of many products made from soybeans. Photo: Dickson Lee
Soy sauce is one of many products made from soybeans. Photo: Dickson Lee

Numerous methods are used to process soybeans.

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