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Does Berlin have a Chinatown? No – it has something better: this is Kantstrasse

  • West Berlin’s affluent Kantstrasse, long a home to Chinese students, has evolved into the German capital’s hotspot for East Asian food and cultural artefacts

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The outside of Lon Men’s Noodle House, a Taiwanese restaurant in Kantstrasse, Berlin. The street is the German capital’s go-to place for East Asian food and more. Photo: Giulio Ferracuti

It’s a late Thursday afternoon on a humid summer’s day and things have quietened down at Lon Men’s Noodle House. With the lunchtime rush over, the waiting staff are sitting down to eat while the chefs prepare the stew for the dinner service, the smell of ginger, garlic and onions thickening the air.

The restaurant’s owner, Hsien-Kuo Ting, is holding court, laughing and joking with staff while playfully teasing his wife, Show-Lian.

The Taiwanese beef noodle soup at Lon Men’s, devel­oped from Show-Lian’s decades-old recipe, has made the restaurant one of the most popular in the area.
Rarely without a queue of waiting customers, its regulars often rub shoulders with East Asian tourists and the rich and famous – politicians, television person­al­ities, basketball players, even the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, have all stopped by.
Lon Men’s Noodle House’s owner, Hsien-Kuo Ting. Photo: Giulio Ferracuti
Lon Men’s Noodle House’s owner, Hsien-Kuo Ting. Photo: Giulio Ferracuti

Pictures of celebrities posing with the staff adorn the walls of the two-decade-old, 40-odd-seater restaurant. Within just a few minutes of meeting the lively owner, it is easy to see how he is as much of a draw for customers as Lon Men’s’ signature dish.

“I’m always talking to my customers and the other restaurant owners on the street,” jokes 69-year-old Ting. “Everybody knows me around here. My wife calls me the mayor of Kantstrasse.”

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