The Hong Kong chef reinventing Chinese classics at Macau’s three-Michelin-starred Jade Dragon restaurant
- Chef Kelvin Au Yeung’s inventive ideas breathe new life into dishes such as sweet and sour pork and rabbitfish soup
- He focuses on sustainability and elevating ‘local ingredients with luxurious ones’
How did you become a chef? “I fell in love with cooking at a young age and started my F&B [food and beverage] career at 15. I did not like academics and had no intention of furthering my studies in school.
“As a junior cook, it was important to gain the trust of master chefs who were willing to pass on their precious skills. So I worked extra hours, helped the masters as much as I could and stayed in the kitchen when others were taking a break or sleeping. After a while, the masters just handed the tasks to me and I got the opportunity to hone my skills.”
What has changed since you started working at Jade Dragon 10 years ago? “I have matured and grown a lot. Now, the pressure I face as a leader gives me an incentive to work harder. I might propose a dish, but we brainstorm as a team and when a new dish comes out we sit together, taste and discuss its origin and concept. It is a collective effort.”
How do you define refinement in a dining experience? “When guests come into the restaurant, our colleagues take time to introduce the menu and tea selection. The sommelier will also be there if needed. Our tea master has an important role because not everyone drinks alcohol. As the guests settle down, the kitchen takes control of the pace. The dining experience at Jade Dragon is presented in a refined manner – the devil is in the details, not just the food.”
Is there a culinary trend you follow? “Sustainability. My focus is mainly on sustainable beef and pork. Recently, during a gala dinner, I presented sustainable beef from Australia. I wanted something more luxurious than oxtail, sirloinor rib-eye, so my final thought was a slow-cooked Westholme beef cheek with abalone and white truffle. Premium dark soy sauce, light soy sauce, onion, garlic and rock sugar complemented the meat.
“The method of cooking was sous vide for 24 hours. Low temperature cooking ensures the protein is tender and the sauce infused sumptuously into the meat fibres.”