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Latin America’s top chef on cooking in the now – ‘I like to cook the way I live and I live one day at a time’

  • Japanese-Peruvian Mitsuharu Tsumura owns Maido, in Lima, No.1 on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and Aji, in Macau
  • I don’t like to plan, he says, you never know what the next trend will be

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Mitsuharu Tsumura at Aji, at the MGM Cotai, in Macau. Photo: MGM Cotai
Irene Sam

How was it growing up in a bicultural environ­ment? “My father was Japanese but I was born in Peru. I went to Japan to gain experience working as a chef. At first it was tough. The Japanese expect you to suffer while learning so that you will appreciate success. That is very different from Peruvian culture. I had no girlfriend during those years, because I was just working in the kitchen.”

How has Nikkei cuisine evolved?Nikkei [second-generation overseas Japanese] cuisine is constantly evolving and the way we eat Peruvian food is changing. The first year in Macau was complicated [the Aji restaurant opened in February last year]. We had to get to know the market and listen to feedback. We tried to keep the flavours of Peru but we realised that strong acidity is not something people are used to in this part of China.
“We decided to tone down the flavours. We also started to be creative in making things nicer. Presentations are now elaborate and portions are smaller. In the past it was more comfort food, now it is fine dining, and people like it.”
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How do you adapt your restaurants around the world? “We have a brand in Peru called Sushi POP. It is a casual brand and we deliver food from small outlets around the main city. We are opening four more restaurants next year, one of them in Miami [in the United States] and another in Colombia.

“Whenever we open a restaurant, we have to adapt to local tastes. For example, Japan has ramen and gyoza. Those are Chinese dishes, but the Japanese developed them in their own way. Our cuisine in Macau is Nikkei cuisine, but with flavours familiar to Chinese.”

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Tsumura’s Amazonic sausage. Photo: Irene Sam
Tsumura’s Amazonic sausage. Photo: Irene Sam
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