Beyond Napa – three light Californian wines the defy that state’s typical tipple
- Santa Lucia Highlands’ restrained wines are a refreshing change from California’s usual full-bodied tipples
California is the largest wine-producing state in the United States, accounting for about 81 per cent of the national production. And although Napa Valley is probably the state’s best known wine region, it represents only 4 per cent of California’s wine production.
The Golden State has more than 107 appellations, which are known as American viticultural areas (AVAs). Californian wines are typically powerful, opulent, concentrated and full-bodied. However, the diversity of terroir means that a wide range of styles is available.
If you prefer cooler-climate, lighter-bodied, restrained wines, try the ones from Santa Lucia Highlands, an AVA located south of Monterey Bay, on California’s central coast. The area’s proximity to the ocean, with fog and wind, moderates the temperature. Pinot noir and chardonnay are the most common varieties here and the style tends to be elegant with restrained fruit and structured with crisp acidity.
The area’s potential for wine has been recognised only in the past few decades and the Santa Lucia Highlands officially became an AVA only in 1991.
Vintners Nicolaus and Gaby Hahn were early pioneers in the area. The family acquired two ranches, turned them into vineyards and produced their first wine in 1980.
Hahn Pinot Gris 2017, Monterey County, HK$197
The fruit for this wine has been fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks.