Making great vintages from montepulciano, grape known for early drinking wines
In the Italian regions of Marche and Abruzzo, vineyards are delivering montepulcianos with high fruit concentration and ageing potential – a far cry from the easy-drinking variety with its soft tannins
With two meanings, the name “montepulciano” causes confusion in the wine world. On the one hand, Montepulciano is the name of a town in southern Tuscany whose wine, vino nobile di Montepulciano, is made from sangiovese grapes.
On the other, montepulciano is a grape variety that is grown in the central and eastern regions of Italy. In Marche, it produces wines labelled as Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno. Further down the coast in Abruzzo, the grapes are used to produce wines known as montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The wines are made for early drinking, with red fruit and soft tannins.
Using careful vineyard management, yield control and modern techniques, Michele Bernetti, chief executive of winemaker Umani Ronchi, has shown montepulciano’s potential to make great wines with high fruit concentration and ageing potential.
Umani Ronchi, Cúmaro Conero Riserva DOCG 2013, HK$290
This wine is named after Mount Conero and the strawberry tree that grows on its slopes. The vineyard is located 150 to 200 metres above sea level and delivers only low yields due to strict pruning and leaf thinning, which increases the grapes’ exposure to sunlight, helping with ripening.
