Hong Kong’s favourite chef opens up about his taste for tinned sardines, instant noodles

In his Mid-Levels home, we find Lai shaving silvery scales off a plump yellow croaker bought from a fish market. The fish weights more than 1kg and cost him HK$3,000. “It’s a rare find,” he says. “At upscale Cantonese restaurants, they’ll be selling this for over HK$10,000.” To preserve it, Lai will half-dry it, so “it’s like a salted fish”, he says.

Next to the dryer, a French pressed duck and compact rolls of saucisson hang like good luck charms. When it comes to cooking at home, the chef says he rarely has time for anything complicated, and he swivels to grab a pack of Japanese instant ramen, trying not to grin. “It’s one of those things you can always eat when you don’t have time,” Lai says.

“Sometimes when I come home, I’m tired. I just want something quick without making a big mess. I love trying all types of instant noodles. It’s like the toy section of the super­market. Especially if you go to City’super or the Japanese supermarkets. They have a huge selection and it always changes, so you can always find something new. I go for the ones with the nice packaging.” Among his favourite varieties are MyKuali’s Penang White Curry Noodles.