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A Canadian chef learns to love vegetables in Hong Kong thanks to his Chinese wife

For father-of-three Nolan Ledarney, who loves trying new cuisines, be it Cantonese or Shanghainese, ‘the health of the children comes first’ – but healthy doesn’t mean boring in this household

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Chef Nolan Ledarney and his wife cook healthy but not boring food for their children. Picture: Jonathan Wong

Originally from Calgary, Canada, Nolan Ledarney has called Hong Kong home since 2013. He moved to Asia in 2001, to work as a chef at the Canadian embassy in Beijing, then to Tokyo, Shanghai and, finally, Hong Kong. Here, he founded Umami Concepts, which offers hands-on dining and cooking experiences and a food-oriented events space, in Sai Ying Pun, as well as Crafted852, which deals in artisanal food products.

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Ledarney lives in Causeway Bay with his wife and their three young children. Their cupboards are mostly stocked with goods from nearby wet markets.

“I’m really proud of how much scratch cookery my wife does at home,” Ledarney says. “I do feel that that’s the best way to show our love to the kids.”

What a Hong Kong global citizen’s pantry shelves say about his tastes

He’s come to know vendors at Wan Chai, Bowrington Road and Tang Lung Chau markets through his in-laws, who are locals.

“[Cantonese food has taught me] the impor­­tance of keeping things light,” he says. “If it wasn’t for my wife, I’d probably be dead by now, because she truly got me into vege­tables. You’re building health consistently. That’s the approach I fell in love with.”

I’m really proud of how much scratch cookery my wife does at home. I do feel that that’s the best way to show our love to the kids
Nolan Ledarney

He also shops at stores specialising in Shanghainese products, such as Old San Yang, in Causeway Bay, buying ingredients he discovered during his time in Shanghai.

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