Sure bets

PERFECT BLEND

The conceptualisation of pink on the front of the menu – “fire is at the heart of pink” and so on – is a bit pretentious, but this towering space is quite lovely, with its pale wooden floor and slate-grey interior. It looks very Thai, which renders the weighty menu a bit of a worry. Talk about “something for everyone” – a dried abalone dish goes for HK$2,288, while the leek and potato soup is HK$88. There’s bird’s nest, Alaskan king crab, Boston lobster and A5 Kagoshima Kobe steak. The dishes are so true to themselves, that whatever cuisine they emanate from, they seem to come from separate kitchens. A simple appetiser of rice crackers (very crispy) with a minced pork and shrimp dip achieves that perfect Thai balance of spicy and sour with just a touch of sweet. The steamed tofu and mushrooms with egg white sauce is a super combination with great textures. And from the “Pink” grill, the grilled South Australian sea bass fillet has a sweet and crispy skin, and is served with small and tender potatoes still in their skins, and unusually delicious tomatoes. Annabel Jackson