Tropical getaway: Indonesia's Forgotten Islands, above and under water
Never mind Bali, or Lombok, or Java and Sumatra - Indonesia is an archipelago of more than 17,000 islands. We explore its neglected far eastern reaches, both above and below water
The Maluku Islands is the starting point for our 14-day trip through Indonesia's Forgotten Islands on live-aboard dive boat The Damai.
AMBON
A quick trip around the bustling capital of Maluku province, Ambon, past colourful painted houses welcomes me. The second world war cemetery is moving, cassava cake at the local cafe enticing. The six others on board the Damai, styled after a traditional Indonesian two-masted sailing ship, and I spend our first few dives in Ambon's surrounds, blown away by the pristine sites and array of marine life: we see curious mantis shrimp, dreamy frogfish, wise-looking moray eels. Then we cruise to Ameth, said to be one of the top five reefs in Indonesia. Here the more experienced divers heading down deep spy hammerhead sharks; I make do with barracuda and swirling schools of jack.
NAHALIA, NUSA LAUT
Thanks to Indonesia's colonial history, many of the 400 people in this village have relatives in The Netherlands and indeed something about the swept streets, manicured lawns and 1820-built church echoes a European aesthetic. Nutmeg, webs of carmine mace and aromatic cloves lie drying in frontyards; we're entering the heart of the Spice Islands, the area once desperately sought after by the explorers of the West for their priceless bounty. We dip our toes in hot springs and our impromptu guide cracks open the local kenari nut, a sweet almond-like treat used in desserts here, for us to try.