25+ Restaurants: Hugo's

Opened in 1969, Hugo's was the European fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong's first Hyatt-branded hotel. "The restaurant was windowless, which made it well-suited for its castle-themed decor. The idea was that there was a warrior called Hugo, who was known to host great feasts in his castle, so there were lots of dark wooden panels and decorative weapons," says manager Paul Lau, who has been with the restaurant for more than 20 years.

In 2005, the Hyatt Regency was demolished. It was relocated, although still in Tsim Sha Tsui and reopened in late 2009. Hugo's opened in January 2010, and Lau continuing to be the manager. "We have windows now, but still wanted to retain that castle-like feel. Many of the decorations are vintage — originals from the old restaurant," he says.

"Hugo's used to be very formal. The dress code was black tie. Then gradually we changed it to jacket and tie, then jacket, and now it is smart casual. In the 1960s and '70s, just eating out in a restaurant was a big deal and you would try to dress up," says Lau.

Although the formality has eased, the food is as classic as ever, with signature dishes such as steak au poivre and lobster bisque finished tableside, and desserts served from silver and walnut wood trolleys.