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Holly McDonald

If you're looking to embark on a genuine adventure in a way few destinations offer in today's carefully regulated world, the long-isolated and less-visited Indonesian island of Nias, just off the west coast of Sumatra, fits the bill.
Leave the LBD and suit at home, pack good shoes, better travel insurance and an extra battery charger for the camera — you'll capture sights you won't see anywhere else during long days on the road.
Nias is home to one of the world's best surf breaks, offers mysterious remnants of an ancient history, teems with stunning tropical countryside and offers a chance to get to know an intriguing traditional warrior culture. Buckle up for the ride.

Surf
Western surfers started trickling to Nias in 1975, when an intrepid group first caught arguably the best right-hand break in the world in the bay between Lagundri and Sorake beaches. Few would argue this break shouldn't be ranked in the world's top 10. Nias was a favourite of the international surfing circuit by the 1990s, but then the island was hit by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and a massive 8.7 magnitude quake in March the following year. These days the surfers are back, and the quake is reputed to have improved the waves by shifting the reef higher. This isn't a beginner's wave once it gets going beyond a metre, but if you're fresh to the sport, paddling out before the swell gathers momentum should be OK — ask at one of the local losmen lining the beach for the best advice. You can hire a board from them, too.

Ponder past & present
You'll need to hire a dirt bike to do it, and you may need to ford a gushing river or two along the way, but check out the stone remains of Tundrumbaho, left by a megalithic culture whose origins are debated but are thought to have appeared some 2,500 years ago. The small, apparently abandoned area has the feel of an open-air museum and is packed with lines of carvings, many shaped like flat mushrooms and some featuring naga-style decorations. Our guide tells us of helicopters flying in to steal them in the dead of night, destined for more conventional museums. Nearby is a small hamlet with another selection of mysterious carvings nestled amid the fluttering washing of the families who eke out a living here. There was chatter about a human skull in one of the stone boxes on our visit, but we didn't ask for it to be opened — it may well be there, a headhunting culture prevailed on the island well into last century. There are links between this culture and that of the Christian-majority population. Although many churches dot the hills across the island, tradition blends seamlessly into today's religion. Graves boast images of the Virgin Mary, but stone naga heads are likely to be a feature as well.
See stone jumping and traditional architecture 
Nias is home to a number of highland villages, strategically located so the villagers could see their enemies approaching from the sea. The views are astounding. Bawomataluo village is one of the easiest to reach. It's also home to the most significant oma sabua, or king's house. These days, the house has a roof of corrugated iron (it was once thatched) but the original supporting wooden poles are intact, and it's a dramatic sight. The rest of the village's interconnected wooden houses have magnificent carved facades reminiscent of ships. Outside is a two-metre-high tower of stones used by the men of the village in ritual jumps. The stones were once used for practice before real fights. You can pay for one of the men to demonstrate this impressive feat. It's also possible to hire a troupe of red, gold and black-clad dancers to put on a traditional performance. The singing and dancing is unlike anything you'll see elsewhere in Asia, and has an almost Pacific island feel.
Get back to nature
There aren't many concessions made to tourists on Nias, and that is part of its allure. You won't find slick touts offering by-the-hour tours to the greatest hits of sights that have already been seen by a million people. Ask around to find a good guide who can take you to see some of the island's beautiful interior. Our host took us on a hike along a rarely used trail to a modest but pretty waterfall. Take your swimmers to cool off in the turquoise waters, as the uphill return hike is arduous.
Enjoy local delicacies
Expect hearty servings of classic Indonesian surfer fare at your guest house — nasi goreng with hunks of fried chicken or freshly barbecued fish. Head straight to the source by visiting the small, bustling market at Teluk Dalam, where you'll find a colourful array of local fruits and vegetables. Keep an eye out for the arrangements of betel leaf, a popular stimulant among the older population.


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Asia travel

The Indonesian island of Nias is a haven for surfers and nature lovers

Photos: David Burden

Megalithic stone naga heads at Tundrumbaho. Photos: David Burden 

The east coast of the island is dotted with sleepy inlets and beaches where jungle meets sand.    

Young surfers hit the water.

Village life in secluded Nias.

Village life in Nias has changed little in centuries.

Betel leaves at a market stall near the harbour of Teluk Dalam in South Nias.

A warrior display.

A teenager soars over a two-metre-high stone tower.

Magazines

48 Hours

Little visited, the tiny Indonesian island is a haven for surfers, nature lovers and those looking for enjoyable adventures away from the crowds
