10 things to do in Kathmandu
Most travellers visiting Nepal fly in and out of the capital, but few spend much time in the city, writes Shafik Meghji
in the heart of the bustling old town, Durbar Square is the best place to start your exploration of Kathmandu. Its focal points are the 16th-century Hanuman Dhoka, the old royal palace, and the 12th-century Kasthamandap temple, one of the oldest wooden buildings in the world and reputedly the source of Kathmandu's name. The most intriguing part of Durbar Square, however, is Kumari Chowk, home to the city's "living goddess", a prepubescent girl worshipped as an incarnation of the goddess Taleju in a practice dating back to the Middle Ages.
a hilltop temple complex dominating the skyline west of the city centre and dating back to the 5th century, Swayambhu is one of the most important Buddhist sites in Nepal. It is crowned by an imposing whitewashed stupa decorated with chains of colourful prayer flags and surrounded by shrines, mini temples and groups of resident monkeys who have given rise to Swayambhu's tourist nickname: Monkey Temple. From the top, there are superlative views over the city and across the Kathmandu Valley.
in the late 1960s and early '70s Freak Street, also known as Jhochhe, was a key stop-off on the hippie trail through Asia. "Freaks" from around the world came to hang out in its cheap hostels, take advantage of the liberal drug laws (which have since been tightened) and eat cakes and drink tea in the many "pie and chai" shops. Those days are long gone, but a few vestiges remain, most notably the atmospheric Snowman Cafe which has been open since 1965 and still has a distinct hippie vibe.
this collection of temples, shrines, bathing platforms and cremation areas along the banks of the Bagmati River are rarely visited by tourists, but offer a unique insight into the lives - and deaths - of Kathmandu's residents. Highlights include the statues of Hindu gods at Pachali Ghat and Tin Dewal, a temple that blends Indian and Nepali architecture styles.
once the capital of an independent kingdom, but now part of greater Kathmandu, Patan has a more relaxed, less touristy feel, something that has prompted dozens of international NGOs and charities to set up offices there. The area has long been famous for its artisans, whose skills are reflected in the three-tiered Hiranyavarna Mahavihara (commonly known as the Golden Temple), one of the most exquisite temples in Nepal. There is also a wonderful collection of bronzes, sculptures and wood carvings in Patan Museum (patanmuseum.gov.np), which is housed in the northern wing of the royal palace in Patan's Durbar Square.