Star Cruises trip from Hong Kong to Taiwan marks a special comeback for its operator

As the Star Voyager cruise ship departs Hong Kong and I look out at a sweeping vista of Victoria Harbour, I reflect on how the voyage I am about to embark on marks a special comeback for the ship’s operator, Star Cruises. Over the next four days, we sail eastward to Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s largest port city, and then to Magong, the capital of the Taiwan Strait’s Penghu archipelago – a city renowned for its rich history and worship of the Chinese sea goddess Mazu. In 2022, Star Cruises’ parent company, Genting Hong Kong, went bankrupt under the economic strain of the pandemic. But this 2025 season, Star Voyager will make 45 trips from Hong Kong’s Ocean Terminal, including to Taiwan, Okinawa in Japan, and Southeast Asian destinations Nha Trang in Vietnam and Boracay in the Philippines. Dinner is already being served at Sophia, one of the ship’s restaurants, when we depart at 6pm. Its set menu includes dishes such as snow crab and avocado tartare with wasabi dressing, lobster bisque soup with sorrel leaves, and roasted Angus beef tenderloin steak. A view of Hong Kong Island’s eastern coastline gliding past the windows creates a unique dining experience. I decide to turn in early in preparation for enjoying one of my most anticipated cruise experiences: watching the sunrise over the open ocean. I set my alarm for 5am and let the ship’s gentle rocking lull me to sleep, already picturing the golden dawn that awaits. But as I step out onto my balcony early the next morning, my initial reaction is one of shock. The contrast between Hong Kong’s dense, jam-packed skyline and the view of the vast, dark, open ocean in front of me is striking. Thankfully the sun begins to rise and creates one of the most beautiful and unforgettable views I have ever seen. Soft shades of purple and red gradually overtake the intense darkness and the thick, sticky air slowly gives way to a balmy breeze. We reach our first destination, Kaohsiung, by noon. After just 18 hours at sea, the sight of civilisation is a relief. The city’s skyline slowly emerges, dominated by the 378-metre-tall (1,240-foot) 85 Sky Tower, the tallest building in Kaohsiung. Immigration is handled swiftly by the ship’s staff; passengers need only wait for the disembarkation announcement. The Kaohsiung cruise terminal has an ATM, and a light rail stop just outside connects to major attractions like the Pier 2 Art Centre. Passengers are given until 9pm to explore the city. Lotus Pond offers a glimpse of Kaohsiung’s slower pace. Thirteen temples and pagodas surround the water – out of them, the brightly coloured Dragon and Tiger Pagodas are among the most iconic spots to visit in the city. As the afternoon wears on, the scene around the pond gets more lively, full of fishermen, dragon boat teams, joggers and elderly couples strolling. Nearby, San Niu Beef Noodles is a local favourite. At this casual spot, you can choose from red-braised or clear-broth beef noodles, and pick sides like braised tofu and lotus root salad from a self-service counter. The next morning we dock at Magong, the seat of Penghu county – a 90-island archipelago in the Taiwan Strait. The city’s name derives from “Makung” (Mazu Temple), referencing the sea goddess Mazu (Tin Hau in Cantonese). According to legend, Lin Moniang, a Song-dynasty (960-1279) shaman from Fujian, could predict storms and protect sailors. After her death, she was deified and remains widely worshipped in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macau and elsewhere in southern China. Mazu worship is especially popular in Taiwan, where it is estimated there are more than 3,000 temples built to her. A 10-minute walk from the Magong Cruise Terminal is Taiwan’s oldest Mazu temple, built during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644). Its arched roof features intricate dragon and fish sculptures. Nearby, Zhongyang Street – the archipelago’s first settlement – is lined with shops selling the island’s famous black sugar cakes and handmade souvenirs. As we depart, the world’s tallest bronze Mazu statue, standing at 48 metres tall, bids us farewell. Unveiled in 2022, it was built at a location where it would be most visible to ships coming in and out of Magong. Now it is time to slowly sail back to Hong Kong. A cruise experience is, of course, as much about what you can do onboard as it is about exploring the shore. With a capacity of 1,944 passengers and 15 decks, Star Voyager is a mid-sized cruise ship. There are eight room tiers. The highest is Palace Penthouse, with rooms up to 64.5 square metres (694 square feet) in size that can sleep four people and include a bathtub. Most rooms come with a balcony, except for the two lowest tiers. The lowest has no view at all, while the second lowest comes with a window. Nevertheless, all passengers can enjoy a sea view from the abundant public spaces. In particular, the uppermost deck – which houses outdoor swimming pools, a waterslide, zip line and ample lounge chairs – offers unobstructed views. It might take some time to familiarise yourself with the ship’s layout, as there is plenty to explore: 15 restaurants and bars, a gym, spa, theatre, casino, children’s club and more. Using a gym at sea is a unique experience. Star Voyager’s 24-hour gym features treadmills facing floor-to-ceiling windows, along with strength-training machines and free weights. Avid runners can also elevate their run using the outdoor jogging track (open 9am to 9pm). There is non-stop onboard entertainment throughout our trip. The crew ensures passengers are always engaged, whether through nightly theatre performances, live music at bars, or daytime movie screenings of Hollywood blockbusters at the cinema. The main lobby is always buzzing with activities like salsa nights and dance performances, and guests of all ages mingle there. Other activities throughout the ship include things like cooking classes and arts and crafts classes. Onboard festivities last until as late as 2am. Passengers can sing their favourite Cantopop songs at one of the karaoke bars or just catch a live band and chill. The voyage wraps on a high note with a red carpet gala on the final night. Passengers are invited to dress up for photos, toasts and memorable farewells. By morning, Hong Kong’s skyline surges into view – and we will soon be back in the hustle and bustle of city life. Disembarkation is swift and efficient, and Ocean Terminals’ central location in Tsim Sha Tsui works its magic. Just 20 minutes later, I’m stepping into my flat, only slightly swaying with my phantom sea legs.

Star Cruises trip from Hong Kong to Taiwan marks a special comeback for its operator

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Star Cruises will make 45 trips from Hong Kong in 2025, to Taiwan, Japan, Vietnam and the Philippines. We joined its first one, to Taiwan

Star Cruises will make 45 trips from Hong Kong in 2025, to Taiwan, Japan, Vietnam and the Philippines. We joined its first one, to Taiwan