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Asia travel
LifestyleTravel & Leisure

Doha stopover: what to see in the Qatari capital – falcons and world-class museums – what to eat and things to do, such as paddle boarding

  • Doha in Qatar offers a trove of Middle Eastern culture, from its falconry and souks to museums featuring Islamic art and local artefacts
  • A single woman shares her experience of a two-night stopover in the city, sampling the food and soaking up its ancient-meets-modern culture

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A bazaar dedicated to falconry (above) in the Qatari capital, Doha,  a blend of ancient and modern, with a man-made residential island and a museum of Islamic art. Photo: Teresa Bergen
Teresa Bergen

Rows of falcons perch on railings, the eye-covering leather hoods around their heads giving the birds the look of blind medieval knights with talons instead of swords.

In Doha’s Falcon Souk – part of the Qatari city’s Souk Waqif market area – men in thobes (loose, long tunics) assess the birds and browse hunting accessories in the shops, or lounge on striped sofas in the narrow walkways.

Except for a few black-covered wives accompanying their husbands, I am the only woman here, but when I enter one of the shops during feeding time and ask if I can photograph the falcons, both the storekeepers and customers are surprisingly accommodating.

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Brightly coloured leashes, falconry gloves and short pedestals line the shop’s perimeter.

Wooden dhows against the skyline of Doha. Photo: Teresa Bergen
Wooden dhows against the skyline of Doha. Photo: Teresa Bergen

In the middle, rows of short, narrow walls covered with bright green strips of AstroTurf stand in a giant sandpit and act as perches for a dozen tethered falcons.

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A man in a long, sand-coloured thobe brings in a white dish of raw chicken legs, which he hand-feeds to the birds. They anchor their meal with their talons and tuck in.

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