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Susan Jung

Juniper berries taste like how pine trees smell – sharp, resinous and clean.
If you have ever had a gin and tonic, or a traditional martini – as opposed to one made with vodka or sake – you will recognise the taste of juniper, which is the main flavour component of gin.
The so-called berry is actually the cone part of the juniper shrub, which is part of the cypress family. In areas where the plant grows – primarily in mountainous regions throughout the world, including Europe and India – the juniper berry is often used fresh.
For longer storage, though, the berries are dried and cured. Before using them in a dish, crack or bruise the berries to release their flavour.

Juniper oil is extracted from the berries and is used in holistic health treatments as a diuretic, to relieve stress, and to help with joint and skin problems.
In the kitchen, juniper is often paired with strong-tasting meats to counteract their gaminess and heaviness.
Use them for a marinade…
For a marinade for venison, mutton or wild game, combine crushed juniper berries with red wine, bay leaves, peppercorns, garlic and shallots, then mix with the meat, which should be lightly salted.
After you cook the meat, strain the marinade, then simmer the liquid with something sweet (to balance the acidity), such as red currant jelly, sugar, honey or maple syrup. Season to taste with salt, then drizzle the sauce over the meat before serving.

…and to flavour sauerkraut/choucroute
I also like to flavour home-made sauerkraut with crushed juniper berries, and improve the flavour of canned sauerkraut, which can be pretty insipid.
Drain the cabbage and rinse it briefly if it is too salty. Use your hands to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Remove and discard the skin from a chunk of pancetta and cut it into cubes (you could use streaky bacon instead).
Fry the pancetta until slightly brown, then add unsalted butter to the pan; if using bacon, drain off most of the fat before adding the butter. Stir in some sliced onion and garlic cloves, and cook until tender.
Add the drained sauerkraut, dry white wine, a stalk of fresh thyme, a bay leaf (broken into two pieces), caraway seeds, lightly crushed juniper berries and whole black peppercorns. Simmer for about 30 minutes.
This is delicious with grilled meat, such as sausages, but it can also be turned into an easy-to-make variation of choucroute, a classic dish from the Alsace region of France.

The traditional version uses smoked ham or ham hocks, duck, and at least two types of fresh sausages. For a much easier version that has almost as much flavour, brown fresh sausages, bury them in the simmering sauerkraut and continue to cook for about 30 minutes.
While the choucroute is cooking, boil new potatoes until tender. Serve the choucroute and potatoes with mustard, horseradish, and lots of beer or white wine.
This content first appeared in Post Magazine in 2004 and 2013.


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How to use juniper berries in marinades for strong meats and to add flavour to sauerkraut

Juniper berries must be cracked or bruised to unleash their sharp, resinous flavour. Use them in marinades for venison and other gamey meats, or to add flavour to sauerkraut. Photo: Shutterstock

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Juniper is great in marinades for strong meats. Combine crushed berries with red wine, bay leaves, peppercorns, garlic and shallots. Photo: Shutterstock

Choucroute is a dish from the Alsace region of France, the traditional version of which is made with sauerkraut, sausages, meat and potatoes. Photo: Shutterstock

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Lifestyle

Food & Drink

The main botanical of gin can temper strong meats’ gamey flavour and goes great in choucroute, a sauerkraut-based dish from Alsace, France


The main botanical of gin can temper strong meats’ gamey flavour and goes great in choucroute, a sauerkraut-based dish from Alsace, France.


Susan Jung's recipes

How to use juniper berries in marinades for strong meats and to add flavour to sauerkraut

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}The main botanical of gin can temper strong meats’ gamey flavour and goes great in choucroute, a sauerkraut-based dish from Alsace, France

The main botanical of gin can temper strong meats’ gamey flavour and goes great in choucroute, a sauerkraut-based dish from Alsace, France