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How to best enjoy white truffles and why they can cause ‘dog-nappings’

This lucrative fungus, which is only in season for a few months a year, shines when shaved over simple dishes

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A white truffle. The prized fungus harvested in Italy and parts of France is found at high-end restaurants when it is in season, typically towards the end of the year. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
Every year, towards the end of October, I get a flood of press releases from upmarket restaurants proudly announcing that they are serving white truffles. As with other ingredients, such as hairy crabs and pea shoots, which are also in season now, the availability of white truffles is fleeting – you have only a few months to enjoy them.
The Tuber magnatum is not really white; it is pale beige or tan, and the interior is even darker. The knobbly fungus is associated with Alba, in Italy, but it is grown in other parts of the country too, as well as in certain areas of France.

White truffle is – or should be – wonderfully fragrant. It is also highly perishable and does not last long once dug up. It is found under the types of tree, including oak, hazelnut and beech, with which it has a symbiotic relationship.

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The truffles are sniffed out by trained dogs, and the fungus business is so lucrative that rival hunters have been known to carry out dog-nappings – the canines usually reappear unharmed at the end of the season.

A truffle hunter searches for truffles with his dog in Verduno, near Alba, in northwestern Italy. Photo: AFP
A truffle hunter searches for truffles with his dog in Verduno, near Alba, in northwestern Italy. Photo: AFP

The flavour and fragrance of white truffles are elusive, and they are best enjoyed raw, shaved over a dish just before it is served.

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