Chinese chef in Singapore’s new-age Cantonese cuisine mixes tradition with modernity
Chef Albert Li of the new Jin Ting Wan at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands talks about how he’s innovating on traditional Cantonese cooking
When it comes to how the Chinese cook duck, most diners around the world may be familiar with two main methods: that of Peking duck, with its theatrical tableside carving, crispy skin, and traditional accoutrements of thin pancakes, hoi sin sauce and vegetables; and Cantonese roast duck, a mainstay of the classic siu mei shop, expertly chopped up and served with a sweet plum sauce.
Pipa duck, which employs an altogether more unique preparation method, is not quite as well known. That may soon change with chef Albert Li’s version at Jin Ting Wan, the new crown-jewel restaurant at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands resort.
It is a dish that represents both Li’s singular approach to showcasing time-honoured Chinese cooking techniques and his penchant for introducing elements of modernity.
It is then roasted over a lychee wood fire in a purpose-built oven and must be painstakingly monitored as it cooks and crackles.
Li’s version has numerous surprises, too. For example, it is robustly seasoned with fresh black pepper, almost a nod to Singaporean pepper crab, which adds jolts of aroma and flavour.