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The Korea Times

By Lee Hae-rin
On a recent Friday, at 11.30am, the door of a small izakaya – a Japanese-style pub – named Keebo Edamame opened in a back alley in Namyeong-dong, Yongsan, in Seoul.
The restaurant quickly filled as the people standing in front of the door entered. Outside stood dozens of other visitors still waiting their turn.
“I came here after [recognising] it as a restaurant run by [chef Hyun Sang-wook] in Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars,” said a 32-year-old surnamed Jeong. “I knew that there were many delicious [places to eat] around Yongsan these days, but I especially like these alleys because they are cute and hip.”

Since its premiere in September, the Netflix original has broken records as the first Korean unscripted title to hit No. 1 on the global rankings for non-English shows, staying on top for three consecutive weeks.
The 12-episode show pits 80 lesser known, underdog chefs against 20 celebrity culinary masters, classified respectively as “black spoon” and “white spoon” chefs.
US news outlet Bloomberg reported that the show’s appeal extends beyond Korea and has injected new life into the country’s food and beverage scene, which had been struggling since the Covid-19 pandemic.
“The show’s popularity has created online buzz, memes and colourful characters of the chefs from the culinary battles … [the show also] reinvigorated Korean food businesses,” Bloomberg said.

Surprisingly, the small back alley in Namyeong-dong has enjoyed unique enthusiasm among Korean foodies after being revealed as the site of the businesses of four of the 20 final “black spoon” chefs. Across the street from Keebo Edamame stands NY Chicken, a chicken grill bistro. The series’ ultimate winner, Kwon Sung-jun, who competed under the stage name Napoli Matfia, runs the Italian restaurant Via Toledo Pasta Bar in the neighbourhood.
The alley, known for decades as a culinary hotspot, now boasts trendy coffee shops, chic bars and restaurants. Visitors can indulge in a diverse range of offerings, from Asian fusion to upscale dining.
In the 1970s and 1980s, the area was called the American Meat Street and Steak Alley because of the US troops stationed nearby. Dasarang Steak, which opened 40 years ago, is one of the decades-old restaurants in the alley. The steak house once used beef, sausage and bacon from the US military base as its main ingredients.
The restaurant’s assorted steak dish, which is sprinkled with roasted garlic powder, is cooked with melted butter, beef, bacon, sausages, onions and mushrooms.

The grill dish was adapted to Korean taste buds over time, as it is now served with kimchi and chopped chives mixed with red pepper powder instead of the classic pickles or barbecue sauce.
According to the August 1982 issue of the Korean magazine Women’s Dong-A, the alley grew famous for featuring restaurants that served affordable, generous helpings of American-style meat, which were rare in the early 1970s.
Hwang Byung-sun, 83, who has worked in the alley while running Daewoo barber shop since the 1980s, is a living witness to this history.
“At that time, a lot of office workers came because the meat was delicious. Many TV celebrities and actors came, too,” he said.

The alley became quiet for some time after the US military base moved out, but regained its vigour since “a lot of young folk started coming these last few years”, Hwang said.
As Hwang put it, Namyeong-dong’s reputation dulled as US-style meat became common, and the Yongsan US military base moved to Pyeongtaek in Gyeonggi province. In turn, restaurants in the alley could no longer receive supplies from the base.
According to property agents, as rents in the surrounding commercial district rose, more new restaurants started springing up in relatively cheaper places.
In recent years Namyeong-dong has become a vibrant hub for young entrepreneurs, revitalising the restaurant industry. However, some residents remain concerned about gentrification.












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Born and raised in nearby Huam-dong, Kim Sung-gyu, 41, opened a restaurant called Eat-da here eight years ago because he saw the growth potential in the back alley where “there was nothing”.
“It’s located on flat land and [it is] close to subway stations and [the] university area, which means it is easily accessible to visitors. Back at the time [I opened the restaurant], there were only two to three restaurants in this alley,” he said.
However, along with the neighbourhood’s soaring popularity, rents also surged, to the point that those who settled here years ago were being kicked out, Kim and several other restaurant owners said.
“This neighbourhood will continue to prosper, but many of us will have to leave,” he said.
Read the original story at The Korea Times.


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How Netflix reality show Culinary Class Wars has brought buzz to a Seoul restaurant alley

The exterior of Keebo Edamame in Namyeong-dong in Seoul’s Yongsan district, one of the restaurants in the small back alley that are thronged with diners drawn by its association with hit Netflix reality show Culinary Class Wars. Photo: Instagram/@jacobhyun

Netflix show Culinary Class Wars has injected new life into Korea’s food and beverage scene. Photo: Netflix

Kwon Sung-jun’s Via Toledo Pasta Bar is in the same neighbourhood as Namyeong-dong in Seoul. Photo: courtesy of Via Toledo Pasta Bar

Dasarang Steak, which opened 40 years ago, still remains in the alley. Photo: Instagram/@koreanfoodguide

Dasarang Steak once used beef, sausage and bacon from a US military base as its main ingredients. Photo: Instagram/@koreanfoodguide

How was Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars made? A look behind the scenes of the popular show

Chef Choi Kang-rok in a still from Culinary Class Wars. Photo: Netflix



The directors of Culinary Class Wars take us behind the scenes of its production, and explain why they were worried some chefs would walk out during filming. Photo: Netflix

Judges Paik Jong-won (left) and Anh Sung-jae in a still from Culinary Class Wars. Photo: Netflix

Chef Jung Ji-sun in a still from Culinary Class Wars. Photo: Netflix

Chef Choi Kang-rok in a still from Culinary Class Wars. Photo: Netflix

From milk tea to noodles, the history and influence of Chinese food culture

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Hong Kong-style milk tea is served with popular Hong Kong fare at the HOKO Cafe, a pop-up cafe in the trendy London neighborhood of Shoreditch. Photo: AP

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Photo: Hector Amezcua

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Wheat noodles originate in Northern China, while rice noodles have Southern Chinese origins, says Dr Siu Yan-ho, a lecturer in Chinese language and literature at Baptist University. 

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Shrimp roe thick noodle lo mien at Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

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Lifestyle

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Travel & Leisure

Alley in Seoul’s Yongsan district where four of the top chefs in Netflix reality show have their businesses is riding high on its popularity


Alley in Seoul’s Yongsan district where four of the top chefs in Netflix reality show have their businesses is riding high on its popularity.
