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‘I use MSG because I love it’: a Cantonese chef is remixing the flavours of his heritage for New Yorkers – think fusion cocktails, char siu McRibs
- Bonnie’s, a Cantonese-American restaurant in New York, is one of the top places to eat in the United States right now, all thanks to 28-year-old chef Calvin Eng
- Eng aims to introduce Chinese flavours like fermented bean curd and canned dace fish to Western palates through his innovative use of ingredients
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In many ways, Bonnie’s is just like any typical New York eatery having its moment in the spotlight: a trendy location in Brooklyn, reservations virtually impossible to get and a well-curated drinks list featuring espresso martinis – everyone’s current cocktail of choice.
But there are few things that will stand out to anyone from Hong Kong upon closer examination: retro green tiles that would not look out of place at a cha chaan teng; the phrase “have you eaten yet?” – a common greeting in Southern China – on the branding of the in-house beer.
Cantonese kitchen staples such as canned dace fish and fermented bean curd make appearances on the menu, and yuen yeung – a coffee and milk tea drink popular in Hong Kong – is the star ingredient of the aforementioned espresso martinis.
The restaurant is the brainchild of 28-year-old Calvin Eng, a Cantonese-American chef determined to introduce food from his culture to Western palates.
Eng cut his teeth working in the kitchens of Nom Wah Nolita and Win Son, both trendy Manhattan establishments with a uniquely American take on East Asian food.
The success of Bonnie’s has turned Eng into a culinary media darling, with accolades from the likes of US food magazine Bon Appétit and The New York Times.
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