Review | New Hong Kong restaurant review: Dynasty Cove – Cantonese and Fujian dishes with an oyster omelette to die for
- With a chef from Fujian, newly opened Dynasty Cove has a good mix of Cantonese and Fujian dishes
- Other highlights of the visit were pomelo skin with goose web cooked to perfection, and the flavourful kale in clay pot
Eating at Dynasty Cove in Tai Hang was a matter of luck.
I’d sent one of my dinner guests a list of new restaurants and asked her to pick one. She went down the list and started calling, and Dynasty Cove was the first place that picked up the phone.
When we looked at the Chinese-only menu, we noticed some Fujian dishes among the Cantonese. My friend asked the waitress where the chef was from, and sure enough, she said he was from that province. We ordered a mix of Fujian and Cantonese dishes, but next time we eat there, we’ll concentrate on the former.
The oyster omelette (HK$168) was one of the best we’ve had. It was slightly oily (in a good way), and had just enough of the stretchy, sweet-potato starch batter to barely hold together the abundance of small, plump fresh oysters and charred scallions.
Pomelo skin with goose web (HK$198 each) had a light but intense sauce that was rich with the flavour of shrimp roe. The pomelo was soft and had a slight, pleasant bitterness from the pith, and the goose web was tender enough that we could bite the skin easily from the bones.
Sweet and sour pork (HK$188), made with Japanese black pork, was a good example of the Cantonese classic. The batter stayed crisp in the well-balanced sauce, and the meat was moist and slightly fatty.
