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Hong Kong restaurant reviews
LifestyleFood & Drink

Review | Hong Kong restaurant review: Wing in Central – Vicky Cheng’s fantastic flavours leave us wanting more

  • The food at the soft opening was nice if heavy, but a recent visit showed a new dimension of deliciousness
  • With intense sauces and a variation of textures, the dishes were cooked to perfection

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Seasonal vegetable with salted pork from Wing Restaurant in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Susan Jung

What a difference a few weeks can make.

In the case of Wing, opened by chef Vicky Cheng of VEA Restaurant, a first visit during the soft opening phase showed us a meal where we liked all the dishes individually, but taken together they made for a dinner that was somewhat one-dimensional - everything tasted heavy.

We paid a second visit about a month later and again, we had no complaints about the flavour of the dishes. But this time, the tastes and textures were much more varied. Instead of having our palates dulled by the intense sauces, each dish left us eager for more.

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There was no way I’d be able to eat at Wing anonymously – Cheng (and many of the staff) know me from my meals at VEA, the chef’s Chinese-French restaurant one floor above in the same building, which is #16 on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and also winner of the Art of Hospitality Award. Our table was in one of the elegant and comfortable private rooms.
Chef and owner Vicky Cheng of Wing Restaurant in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Chef and owner Vicky Cheng of Wing Restaurant in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Jonathan Wong

At Wing, all diners eat a set menu (HK$1,780), although those in the private rooms can choose to add dishes from an à la carte selection of seasonal items. The menu changes often, so you may not have the same dishes on your visit.

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