How oyster omelettes helped the Chinese win a war

Oyster omelettes, or pancakes, are a street food staple in Taiwan and Xiamen. Legend has it that the dish originated in the throes of battle

Quality oysters are key to the dish, but one Xiamen chef says they’re increasingly harder to find

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Oyster omelettes are often served with sweet chilli sauce on the side. Photo: Goldthread

Published: 1:08pm, 3 Feb 2021Updated: 1:07pm, 3 Feb 2021

The year is 1661. A Chinese general named Koxinga is sent to Taiwan to fend off the Dutch, who have taken over the island.

In an effort to limit the food supply, the Dutch hid rice from the Chinese army. Desperate for food, Koxinga finds oysters on the beach, coats them in sweet potato starch, and deep-fries them for his men. The army is saved from hunger and later wins the war against the Dutch.

It’s a fanciful origin story, one that may be more myth than reality, but one thing is without a doubt: go to Taiwan and nearby Xiamen at any time of the year, and you’ll find street stalls selling oyster pancakes around the clock, from early in the morning till late in the evening.

A coastal city in southeastern China, Xiamen lies just across a narrow strait from Taiwan. It has a maritime climate, which means it enjoys mild weather year round. Seafood is king, and oyster pancakes – also called oyster omelettes – are a local speciality, usually served kerbside on stools.

“Basically, whenever there are oysters, we’ll eat them,” says Wang Xishan, owner of Lianhuan Hailijian, arguably the city’s most famous oyster pancake shop. “It doesn’t matter what time of year it is.”

Every family has its own take on the dish, but the basic recipe usually entails oysters stir-fried with a batter made from sweet potato and eggs. Garlic shoots and other accoutrements might be thrown in as well. It’s a hearty combination.