Chinese regional cuisine: Yunnan - noodles and unique ingredients served up in Hong Kong restaurants
There is undoubtedly something special about food from China’s Yunnan province. Three Hong Kong restaurant owners hailing from the province talk about the ingredients they love, and how they incorporate them in their dishes
Yunnan province in southwest China prides itself on its colourful ethnic minority groups, picturesque landscapes and rich biodiversity. It is also a destination for health-conscious food lovers to explore, many of whom are drawn by the chance to get a true taste of nature. One thing they search for in particular is the province’s best-known crop: wild mushrooms.
More than 5,000 types of mushroom can be found in Yunnan – nicknamed the “kingdom of mushrooms” – thanks to the province’s regular rainfall and mild temperatures. Of those, 500 species are edible, says Winnie Li, a Yunnan native who runs the Ashima Yunnan Restaurant in Hong Kong’s Tai Koo neighbourhood. Raise the subject of Yunnan mushrooms and Li’s eyes light up.
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“There’s a rule of thumb when cooking Yunnan mushrooms,” Li says. “Each species of mushroom has a distinctive aroma and taste, and a natural sweetness. For that reason, don’t season them heavily or overdo it when cooking. Avoid cooking them with ingredients that have strong flavours, otherwise their original characteristics will be outshone or even spoiled.”
Niu gan jun or Boletus edulis, a type of porcini, is beloved for its rich flavour and silky, crisp texture. It has over 50 varieties, with the black, white and yellow types commonly used in Yunnan kitchens. While this type of mushroom is available year-round in preserved forms (dried or flash frozen), it is most coveted in the harvest season of May and June, making the price soar.
“Each kilogram could fetch a staggering 1,000 yuan [US$160],” Li says. “We don’t buy until the price cools down a few months later. We persist in offering friendly prices so that ordinary customers, not only wealthy diners, can access luxury mushroom dishes.”
