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LifestyleFood & Drink
Sarah Heller

Grape & Grain | How idea for a Hong Kong wine bar took time to mature, just like a good vintage

A desire to balance the simple enjoyment factor with imparting knowledge lies behind bar’s focus on by-the-glass basic and vintage offerings mixed with a modest list of bottles from diverse sources, including Bordeaux and Bulgaria

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A wide range of wines by the glass is a focus at Red Door at the Vault in Central.

A wine bar I’ve opened with Matthew Aylmer of Red Door Group and the Fringe Club was a long time coming for various reasons.

At one stage, while studying for the practical part of the Master of Wine exam, I thought of a bar that served wines in theme-based flights designed specifically for MW students. There’d be a New World cabernet flight with Napa, Stellenbosch and Coonawarra cabs for comparing origins, or a flight with village-level, premier cru and grand cru Burgundy (that would be an outlandishly expensive flight) fortasting quality levels – all served blind, with a question paper and a score.

It didn’t seem like a major hurdle that only MW students and masochists would be the only customers.

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Vineyards of the Stellenbosch district in Western Cape Province, South Africa.
Vineyards of the Stellenbosch district in Western Cape Province, South Africa.
Then there was my egg phase. Tired of exam studies and the academic side of wine, my head filled with visions after a visit to McLaren Vale’s Yangarra Estate, with its gorgeous ceramic egg wine tanks. Asian wines gain respect in global restaurants

I dreamed of a grandiose, expansive wine bar, walls lined with eggs (675 litres each, mind you) and tireless revellers downing glasses straight from the tank. Needless to say, although my friends and family indulged me enough to listen, the idea never took off.

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A wine bar existed in my mind in various forms for years, but the basic idea – that it should be somewhere that balances learning about wine with simply enjoying it – persisted.

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