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Mainland wine importers optimistic despite clampdown on gift giving

The government clampdown on gift-giving on the mainland has caused wine importers some problems, but most are optimistic, writesMark Graham

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Helene Ponty of Bordeaux Ponty.Photo: Simon Song
Mark Graham

In years gone by, the giant wine company Torres made special decorative gift boxes for Lunar New Year, confident there would be plenty of corporate buyers in China seeking expensive, elaborately packaged wine to give to contacts.

But not for the Year of the Horse. The demand for such special gift packaging has fallen so dramatically that it is no longer worth making special editions for significant festivals, such as the New Year or Mid-Autumn.

The government clampdown on gift giving has also affected another handsome, year-round revenue earner for the wine industry. Lavish banquets where red wine flowed and toasts were endless, have been pared back, particularly in Beijing. In the capital, people have to be seen to be implementing the government's decree to stop splashing the cash on wining and dining; events featuring high-end Bordeaux and top-drawer bai jiu (rice liquor) are thin on the ground.

Customs figures show the volume of wine imports rose by 5 per cent last year. But they increased just 0.5 per cent by value and imports from France rose only 1 per cent by volume, and fell 10 per cent by value. But this doesn't mean it is total gloom and doom for the Chinese wine trade. China's wine-lovers enthusiastically took to grapes from Spain, Chile and Portugal, and continued to enjoy wines from Australia, Italy, the US, South Africa, Argentina and Germany.

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