Slovenian winemakers seek apostles to spread the word on best labels

Robert Gorjak of Dveri-Pax winery, a mid-size Slovenian winery that produces around 300,000 bottles a year from 75 hectares of land in northwestern Slovenia, was in Hong Kong recently to introduce his wines to Asia.

Gorjak explains that, in the Yugoslav era, the wine industry was hampered by a state-led drive for quantity over quality.

"The big explosion of private producers happened in the 1990s when we got independence. They were good times," he says. Nowadays, more producers are aiming for quality.

"Being a winemaker in Slovenia gives you a different perspective. There are many places in the world, especially outside Europe, where wine is pure business. It's like any other business. In Europe and Slovenia there is a lot of passion. So it is very often not a rational decision that leads people to become winemakers. It is often inherited.

"I am not surprised if people are surprised to find out about wine production in Slovenia," he says, but adds that many Slovenian wines have found their way onto the lists of two- and three-Michelin-star restaurants around the world.

"Regarding the quality, especially the white wines, some of them can match the top wines of the world. I will never say we are the best, but under certain circumstances we can match the top wines." Gorjak is backed up by the many awards the winery has received.

"We produce around 20 different wines, mainly varietals. Furmint, welschriesling, riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewürztraminer, muscat and pinot gris, and from the red we produce blaufränkisch, pinot noir and zweigelt.